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Post by peppib on Aug 23, 2014 19:58:52 GMT
had the plastic covers on gearbox cables replaced, as oil was persisting out, and at the same time a different silencer fitted. I couldn't get a crab one but garage found that a (speaks very very quietly... Corsa ) one was a good fit. Now once the vehicle is warm (hot) there is an annoying knocking/rattle, sounding a bit like a big end/slack gudgeon pin only it isn't as the noise is only there whilst the car is moving. When stationary it can be revved and there is no noise, which there would be if it were a bearing.
I have checked clearance between drive and exhaust and there is loads so it isn't that, I can't see the exhaust catching anywhere as only coming on once the car has heated up would point to exhaust.
I did find that there were no bolts in the front nearside engine mount, but fitted some (doc reckons resulting hernia may need treatment in time : No idea why those were missing as engine hasn't been out for 4 years.
Anyone any ideas what else it could be?
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 24, 2014 1:08:56 GMT
I think it would be helpful if you could give some more details as these remote diagnosis are very difficult unless it is a common fault, which this doesn't appear to be. I'm not sure whether the new exhaust is the cause or just coincidental maybe others here will have knowledge of fitting alternative exhaust systems. I assume your new system has a flexible joint? If possible a video with sound would be good, but if not could you elaborate if it: is present in all gears related to engine or road speed varies with load, ie worse under hill climbing is worse under cornering, full lock turns etc is worse at any particular engine speed has any bearing rattle on starting from cold after standing for a day or more Anything else! I assume you have checked the ignition timing at idle and at 3000 rpm? Do you have an oil pressure gauge? A very long shot. I had a sound similar to what you describe that turned out to be a con rod clipping the camshaft only under heavy load and above 3000 rpm. The cause - the crankshaft thrust washers were worn allowing the crank to move backwards and forwards. There is very little clearance between the camshaft and the con rods. To check, tap the crankshaft pulley to knock the crankshaft to the rear of the block and then get someone to depress the clutch. If you can feel the pulley move forwards more than the end-float of a few thou there is wear in the thrust washers. Usually this wear also shows up initially as the clutch engaging too low to the floor. Hopefully your issue is something more straight forward. regards David had the plastic covers on gearbox cables replaced, as oil was persisting out, and at the same time a different silencer fitted. I couldn't get a crab one but garage found that a (speaks very very quietly... Corsa ) one was a good fit. Now once the vehicle is warm (hot) there is an annoying knocking/rattle, sounding a bit like a big end/slack gudgeon pin only it isn't as the noise is only there whilst the car is moving. When stationary it can be revved and there is no noise, which there would be if it were a bearing.
I have checked clearance between drive and exhaust and there is loads so it isn't that, I can't see the exhaust catching anywhere as only coming on once the car has heated up would point to exhaust.
I did find that there were no bolts in the front nearside engine mount, but fitted some (doc reckons resulting hernia may need treatment in time : No idea why those were missing as engine hasn't been out for 4 years.
Anyone any ideas what else it could be? |
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Post by peppib on Aug 24, 2014 9:25:23 GMT
Not clever enough to do a video whilst driving and no one else available to help with that.
Present in all gears, increases with road speed, no different in normal driving to under load, no worse on cornering or full lock. It just gets faster with engine speed and there is no worst speed. Timing has been checked and is OK (have strobe light) Don't have an oil pressure gauge. bearing rattle for a couple of seconds on cold start after standing until the oil pumps around the system.
Local garage had no idea after driving the car - they didn't even notice the missing engine mount bolts. Their advice was just to run it until whatever is causing the problem fails completely, but if I can I would like to sort it before any unnecessary damage is done and the bill gets too high (it is, after all, my main car)
When I am able I will try knocking the crankshaft to the rear and depressing the clutch
many thanks for the suggestions
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 24, 2014 10:17:06 GMT
Sounds like a wonderful local garage  Given there is no difference under load that seems to rule out engine bearing problems. A couple of seconds rattle on cold start isn't usually something to worry about too much on these engines. Try depressing the clutch when the engine is warm and you're going at the speed you notice the noise to ensure it's not transmission related. If you could take a video just to record the sound so you don't have to hold the camera it may help someone here recognise the sound. regards David Not clever enough to do a video whilst driving and no one else available to help with that. Present in all gears, increases with road speed, no different in normal driving to under load, no worse on cornering or full lock. It just gets faster with engine speed and there is no worst speed. Timing has been checked and is OK (have strobe light) Don't have an oil pressure gauge. bearing rattle for a couple of seconds on cold start after standing until the oil pumps around the system. Local garage had no idea after driving the car - they didn't even notice the missing engine mount bolts. Their advice was just to run it until whatever is causing the problem fails completely, but if I can I would like to sort it before any unnecessary damage is done and the bill gets too high (it is, after all, my main car) When I am able I will try knocking the crankshaft to the rear and depressing the clutch many thanks for the suggestions |
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Post by peppib on Aug 24, 2014 13:39:23 GMT
OK Dave, will try to get madam (the red head I am carer to - you have possibly seen her with me at national shows and Peterborough) to hold my phone whilst I drive. Just had car to pub, 25 mile round trip (Sunday lunch and no alcohol) and have been trying all sorts of acceleration, easing off etc. Noise came on after about 5 miles, still there when disengaging clutch but car will run at 60 mph with constant throttle and no noise. Most noticeable on acceleration and coming from low down so possibly something in transmission. Am going to take gear lever out (when this b.... injured back lets me) and check adjustment of cables in case garage haven't done it correctly.
Yes the exhaust has a flexible joint
Chap who owns garage is a mere 27 so I have to tell him where to look and what to do, and supply workshop manual, but it is convenient and there is a door to door bus service so no need for me to bother with my scooter
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 25, 2014 1:34:10 GMT
Try temporarily retarding the ignition 5 degrees and see if the noise goes away. If it does then we'll take it from there. David Noise came on after about 5 miles, still there when disengaging clutch but car will run at 60 mph with constant throttle and no noise. Most noticeable on acceleration and coming from low down so possibly something in transmission. |
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Post by peppib on Aug 25, 2014 8:06:04 GMT
Funny you should say that because when the noise first came on I thought it was pinking. Checked the carb mixture and it was very weak so made adjustments. The timing was set by strobe by someone else (not the garage, someone who used to help me) and I haven't checked it. If I can manage to get out of my wheelchair long enough today I will retard her and take her for a run
Sorry if some of the questions seem daft/vague but my memory is certainly failing. a few years ago I would have had this thing sorted myself.
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Post by peppib on Aug 25, 2014 10:31:49 GMT
Dave - the auto advance/retard is seized solid. if penetrating oil won't shift it, I will fit a new distributor.
many thanks for the help in pointing me in the right direction!
Dave
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Post by Penguin45 on Aug 25, 2014 12:38:11 GMT
Just a sideways thought - last thing done was exhaust work, so that would be the first place to start. I'm thinking perhaps a loose baffle which doesn't make itself known until there's a bit of heat in the system. But David will be right...... Chris. |
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Post by peppib on Aug 25, 2014 14:03:37 GMT
Chris,
The noise was too far forward to be a baffle (although the sound would travel along the pipe). managed to free off the advance/retard a bit and have had the car out. Much quieter. Will try and work more oil in to free the thing off more but if it doesn't work I will either buy a new mechanism or a full distributor
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Post by tommydp on Aug 25, 2014 20:18:43 GMT
Hi! I'd remove the distributor, take the points plate off and clean and lubricate everything. The points plate is only mounted to the dizzy by two screws. It consists of two parts, the outer should move as the vacuum advance operates. Take it apart, clean, lubricate. At the same time, make sure the vacuum unit on the distributor works. Suck the advance pipe connected to the carb, the vacuum unit's spring which connects to the points plate should move. Block the pipe with your tongue to see if it holds vacuum, stays in the advanced position. Might taste petrol:-) I strongly recommend you try to fix the original distributor and if changing ignition components go for old stock or known quality items. I had my distributor overhauled by www.distributordoctor.com, and can recommend him. However, the one on my other 1800, which has lots of miles on it seems to be just as good with regular servicing and use of quality components. Good luck! Regards, Tommy |
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 26, 2014 1:24:58 GMT
I agree with Tommy. Don't be tempted by these unbelievably cheap distributors with totally unknown advance curves. Just replace anything that won't free up or is sloppy. If nothing else I would always recommend replacing the springs as they will be tired after all these years. regards David Hi! I'd remove the distributor, take the points plate off and clean and lubricate everything. I had my distributor overhauled by www.distributordoctor.com, and can recommend him. However, the one on my other 1800, which has lots of miles on it seems to be just as good with regular servicing and use of quality components. Good luck! Regards, Tommy |
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Post by peppib on Aug 26, 2014 7:49:11 GMT
Dave - the distributor on the Moggy I had literally fell to bits (the nut came off the end of the advance/retard as the threads were worn out, the unit fell off Dazzled by the glitzy ads I bought a new distributor I can honestly say it was a Cheap Reliable Affordable Product - more trouble than it was worth. I have found a 'traditional' NOS for sale - at a price though. May speak to Tony and see what he has available (if anything)
Tommy - thanks for that information. I have repaired distributors in the past, but nowadays I think it is me that is getting past it! Shaky hands mean that undoing screws on anything with springs means parts flying in all directions. I will check out the distributor doctor
Dave
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 26, 2014 10:00:39 GMT
Do you have any BMC, Mini, Morris Minor clubs locally that could help you out. Unfortunately I'm staying a few thousand miles away or I would try and pop over. In the meantime if you have managed to free off the mechanical advance and retard mechanism then check the vacuum as Tommy suggested. If you can manage to set the static timing to around 12 degrees BTDC at least you will have a runner. If the vacuum diaphragm is leaking, plug the pipe and add 2-3 degrees to the static timing to compensate. Take it easy and there shouldn't be an issue other than using a bit ore fuel until you can get it sorted.
regards
David
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Post by peppib on Aug 26, 2014 14:07:18 GMT
David
A few years ago I used to be a member of the local MMOC (as well as the national) and we had a 'falling out' I hosted their website on my webspace, but also had a blog about my Moggy. We were at a show in Yorkshire as a group and one of the cars made an unscheduled stop because the youngster on board wanted a burger. Because we were late, the reserved spaces had been taken so we were parked in a very shady yard at the rear of the premises. In the blog I made a comment about being sure the car had been washed and didn't suffer B.O. but was kept out of sight. Sadly the members of the organising branch read the blog whilst looking at the local site, complained to the Chairman of the local branch about my blog on my site and things soured from there. I used to be a member of a local restoration club with access to lift and just about any tool you could think of but failing health meant I wasn't using the facilities so I let my membership lapse (telling them why) I do have a welder friend who can do quite complex work ( 4 years ago he and I changed the complete self leveling suspension including the globes [they were a real b.....r] on another friends 230TE) he has a factory unit about 25 miles away so if i get stuck I will go and pester, sorry, consult him.
Wouldn't care but for ages I had a 'spare' distributor which although none working did have a perfectly serviceable vac unit on it. It went to the tip about 4 weeks ago.
Dave
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No idea why those were missing as engine hasn't been out for 4 years.
