Brake bleeding

When you say a one man pressure bleeding system, is that just a normal one man bleeding kit with a non-return valve?

Because that's all I use and it works nicely.

-Andrew

Hi Mike, welcome aboard.

I've never had much luck with pressure bleeding on any car!

Just to add the other quirk of the brakes on these cars - bleed from the shortest run to the longest; i.e. start at the front.

When you're ready, it'd be good to see some pictures of the car.

Regards,

Chris.

Thanks guys, the system I bought has a hand pump so can keep the pressure down to 9psi. Now I have to think- keep it new and resell on E bay or take a chance and try!!!!! Never a dull moment with old cars. Will update
Mike

Absolutely no idea sorry! It will depend on how much you flush through when bleeding the brakes. If there is any discolouration from old fluid, corrosion, rubbers etc it means you should continue until it's clear, so you could use much more than just the volume of the system.

Remember that it's not a good idea to keep brake fluid even for a short time once opened as recent tests using an electronic meter at a classic car rally showed a very high proportion of cars had poor fluid. You should actually close the cap immediately after each time you pour fluid into the master cylinder if the latest information is to be believed. It absorbs water vapour at an amazing rate from the surroundings. I do think it is a good idea to keep to one brand and buy it from a reliable source (maybe not Ebay for something so critical).

You may find that 2 x 500ml bottles is more than sufficient but could cost as much as a 5L container so a difficult call given that you should really discard what's left over. I'm sure I'm guilty of using half empty containers in the past without attributing any braking problems, but on reflection maybe that's why the servo failed

Regards

David

Good luck Tony.

I use what you have just bought, you just slacken the nipple off a little bit and then give the brakes nice long pumps. You should see the bottle fill up and fluid in the clear line with no bubbles. If you get bubbles in the line, pump some more.

If the bottle fills up, tighten the nipple up, remove the bleeder, drain it and repeat until you have no air in the system.

Hope that helps a little bit.

-Andrew

I can now report back on my newly acquired brake bleeding suction device - purchased at great cost (about $100), but "guaranteed" to work according to the box. Well, I am impressed. What happens is that one attaches a rubber fitting to the bleeder nipple, which is unscrewed about 1/4 turn. A plastic pipe goes into the rubber fitting, and the other end into a pot, at the top of which is a nozzle a bit like a spray gun. Compressed air (from your air compressor) goes through the nozzle, creating a vacuum in the pot underneath, and brake fluid is drawn via a venturi effect through the tube and into the pot. As expected, considerable air comes along for the ride through the threads of the nipple, but the great advantage is that the process is quite slow. The handle that controls the air flow can be clicked into the open position, and so one just sets it going, and then somewhat leisurely checks the master cylinder level - topping up as desired, while the fluid is drawn through. If different coloured fluid is used, then it is possible to determine when the new fluid gets through the system. The whole thing took about 20 minutes and I didn't spill a drop, nor did the managing director of this establishment have to be diverted from other important duties. No doubt this will pay for itself in about 20 years.

pictures