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Post by dave1800 on Dec 19, 2014 3:47:30 GMT
Not after beer hopefully  David ..... And yes, I do check without thinking whether or not the car is leaning. Chris. |
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Post by andrewa on Dec 19, 2014 13:54:49 GMT
Forums like this one are great! But others can a mine of mis-information / deep seated prejudice I've found!!!
There is no reason why a correctly dialed in 285 cam, on a properly built engine, with the distributor set correctly and the right plugs, leads, coil, carb needles etc shouldn't idle properly. This is where a rolling road is useful (not necessary most of the time). With mine I'm nitpicking, most people wouldn't know it had a hot-ish cam from the idle.
BTW I've managed to scan the article, but I'm struggling to get photobucket to accept it!
If someone more experienced than I can pm me their email I'll send it on.
Cheers
A
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Post by dave1800 on Dec 20, 2014 2:22:27 GMT
You are right Andrew, there is a lot of misinformation out there and quite a lot of bickering which is why I find this forum refreshing. We all try our best to help each other and try to give the best advice. I suspect some of the MGB owners who can't get their cars to idle properly failed to sort out their issues before they swopped cams not realising that the hotter cam will probably only exacerbate any weakneses in the fuelling, engine or ignition.
I've sent to a PM
regards
David
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Post by andrewa on Dec 20, 2014 11:07:24 GMT
I agree - surprise! But just about every tuning book written starts with the advice that you make sure that what you start with is working perfectly! I do fancy an MGB at some point...my ideal would be Iris Blue, warm 1860 engine a few sympathetic suspension mods and leave it like that. It would have a lived in look, worn seats, original steering wheel, gearbox etc and have that look of a one owner, not pampered never been apart car….paint ok from 20 feet but rough close up and on the button underneath!
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Post by dave1800 on Dec 21, 2014 1:40:47 GMT
Maybe part of the issue is that while some people spend the money to do the job properly others have a more limited budget and possily try and get away with just changing the cam. I still think you have done well though as Peter Burgess' website states:- "Piper HR285 camshaft combination is the ideal starting point. The idle is slightly rough/loping, becoming smooth at around 1300 rpm under light throttle." I like your ideal MGB description. Regards David I agree - surprise! But just about every tuning book written starts with the advice that you make sure that what you start with is working perfectly! |
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Post by dave1800 on Dec 23, 2014 1:04:04 GMT
Chris Hope, Editor of Classic Car buyer has kindly provided a photo taken by Grant Ford of your car at Goodwood on 5th December.  David |
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Post by dave1800 on Dec 29, 2014 4:51:00 GMT
We had our local classic car meeting recently and the two Lotus owners were definitely not at all gracious about your car embarrasing the Elise at Goodwood, I wonder why. . It was my revenge for the comments (voiced or oherwise) I get about Landcrabs from some of them and an eye opener for others. David |
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Post by andrewa on Jan 27, 2015 21:00:22 GMT
For some stupid reason I decided to tidy the garage last week and it's turned into a massive task - am building a flat-tracker (motorbike thing) and need some space.
Managed to back the landcrab into my old Megane estate (at speed) whilst moving things around- not a scratch on the crab but Megane will need remedial work...!!
Also have got some slightly softer engine mountings off Tony so will see if they improve my not so good vibrations...will keep you posted.
Cheers
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Post by dave1800 on Jan 28, 2015 0:25:31 GMT
Ouch!!!! You could think about taking up stock car racing after rallying perhaps David Managed to back the landcrab into my old Megane estate (at speed) whilst moving things around- not a scratch on the crab but Megane will need remedial work...!! Cheers |
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Post by andrewa on Jan 28, 2015 11:00:51 GMT
Don't.....when I sold my three litre the guy who bought it (who initially turned up smartly dressed to view, didn't haggle or really have a look over the car and promised to cherish it) turned up with a beaver tailed truck in shorts and sleeveless t-shirt to take it away I had my concerns about where it might be ending up... Haven't seen it since but I'd like to think my suspicions are wrong. They were the terrors of the banger racing circuit though as virtually indestructible...I quote from Neil Kidby of the Austin 3 Litre club..who I'm sure won't mind "One part of the cars history is banger racing, an unusual subject on a site about classic cars yes, but it is part of the cars history. These cars were very over-engineered and as such were incredibly strong, fast and reliable, this made them ideal cars for banger racing. Spedeworth drivers Nick Linfield won a world championship in 1981 driving an Austin 3 Litre, Graham Lashley followed suit in 1983 again in an Austin 3 Litre. It is true that Banger racing has seen the end of many Austin 3-Litres, we would hope the vast majority of these were well past any hope of realistic restoration. MGC owners have plundered far better cars in search of a cheap engine or overdrive gearbox. In the 1980's many of these cars were begining to show their age and due to at the time having low economic value, they made an ideal car for racing. The car soon became the choice for many seasoned racers, and feared by those who were racing other cars. It was very common to see the front of the engine poking out of the car and emitting a large shower of sparks as it made contact with its victim! The racing scene has always had racers symathetic to the cars they race, and as such many cars have been kept on the road using spares from raced cars. The car pictured below, although looking sound was incredibly corroded underneath, several cars benefited from parts donated from it, some of these are still on the authors car over 25 years later! What goes round comes round as they say, a good many keen racers from days gone by are now passionately involved in preserving the cars that remain, one of them is the owner and author of this site. The only 3-Litre I have sent to this fate is the one pictured here, it was raced by a friend in 1988." See www.austinthreelitre.co.uk/about/default.html for the full piece plus pictures! |
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Post by dave1800 on Jan 29, 2015 1:42:08 GMT
Sadly, quite a numer of Landcrabs suffered the same fate for the same reasons. They were cheap and strong and with the radiator protected by not being exposed at the front of the vehicle would keep on going. I read one amusing report where a Crab allegedly climbed over wrecks and annoyed a couple of Jag drivers so much they teamed up and did a combined scissor manoeuvre to cut the back off the crab. Believable? I'm not sure.
David
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Post by andrewa on Feb 1, 2015 11:41:00 GMT
Have changed rear engine mounting and quite a noticeable improvement. Not sure whether to change front one as well - have got the original - non bolt through the rubber arrangement for the front.
Given the abuse the car will suffer am in two minds whether to just fit the standard one and keep an eye on it or put a sleeved bolt through to be on the safe side.
Any thoughts? Noticed fluid from dreaded Schrader valve after negotiating road with speed humps. Cleaned it up and no further leaks....will use as everyday car this week and see how things develop! |
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Post by andrewa on Feb 9, 2015 10:25:03 GMT
For those that are interested - have changed the front one and car is transformed! "Special" one def too harsh. Have decided to put a couple of sleeved bolts through it anyway just to be on the safe side.
Btw it's the valve itself that's leaking which is lightly annoying as it was new last year....grrrr. Easy job if you didn't have to drain and pump up again.
Cheers
Andrew
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Post by Penguin45 on Feb 9, 2015 18:39:35 GMT
Hi Andrew. You could try "pinging" the valve stem. Push it inwards briefly and allow it to snap back up. It may well re-seat itself. You may also get wet. Have you gone for the plain rubber mounts which work in sheer? Chris. |
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Post by dave1800 on Feb 10, 2015 1:03:49 GMT
I think that using the bolts is an excellent idea just in case the mounting fails when you are jumping the car. Nick posted a photo of a Morris 1800 rally car recently and I see there is an additional engine steady bar from the engine block to the front of the car next to the bonnet catch. I can't remember seeing that before on a crab although I believe it is not unusual on some American vehicles in standard trim. 1800 steady bar regards David For those that are interested - have changed the front one and car is transformed! "Special" one def too harsh. Have decided to put a couple of sleeved bolts through it anyway just to be on the safe side. Btw it's the valve itself that's leaking which is lightly annoying as it was new last year....grrrr. Easy job if you didn't have to drain and pump up again. Cheers Andrew |
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..... And yes, I do check without thinking whether or not the car is leaning. 
