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Post by andrewa on Dec 23, 2016 22:06:29 GMT
They're Cobra seats and would normally have been outside my price range except I was fortunate to ring up when they were having a factory sale and they did me a deal.
A lot firmer than original but not uncomfortable and very supportive but not to tight for my more than ample frame!
Not straightforward to fit. Made up a frame using original mounting points and fixed new runners to that so if want to go back to original seats it's easy.
Definitely encourages you to throw it around a bit more btw!
They do have headrests as well which I haven't put on yet.
Happy Christmas btw!
Cheers
Andrew
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Post by andrewa on Jan 11, 2017 7:56:40 GMT
The saga continues!
Got cam timing checked - 8 degrees out - not mega but I presume enough to make a difference and tappets set.
Also noticed middle 2 spark plugs black but outside two perfect!
Also noticed inside bit of coil where lead plugs in very rusty as are inside bits of leads. These are the super dooper petronix flamethrower jobs that are 2 or 3 years old.
New coil and leads on way under warranty then lets see how she is. Am hoping black plugs are down to dodgy coil/leads not something more serious.
Timing will then need checking and due to this wonderful programmable distributor I have, you really need a rolling road.
That's booked in for next Tuesday - so more after that!
Cheers
Andrew
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Post by dave1800 on Jan 11, 2017 8:29:19 GMT
Hi Andrew As you have a fairly hot cam you should expect the inner cylinders to run richer because of what is commonly termed "charge robbing" arising from the siamese inlet ports. This is not so much of an issue with the standard single carb engine but is still noticeable on the plugs. Although not ideal you should really only worry if the outer cylinders are running too weak which will cause damage. There is a description of charge robbing here Who informed you that the cam timing is 8 degrees out? If it was I imagine your tuned engine would run like a pig, it is almost equivalent to the timing chain being one tooth out. I recall you have an adjustable cam gear - it's not something that should be countered with the programmable ignition. The camshaft drives the distributor so you need to get the cam right. If you have the record of the ignition timing from the rolling road set up, you can now check it at idle. If it is correct then the camshaft timing hasn't slipped although it may have moved a couple of crankshaft degrees with the chain bedding in but not 8 degrees unless the tensioner has failed or the camshaft adjuster come loose. regards David |
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Post by andrewa on Jan 11, 2017 10:38:32 GMT
Thanks for re-assurance re plugs!
The checking of the cam timing was a nagging comment by Peter Burgess so I thought I'd have it checked and he appears to be right.
Been adjusted on the verniers so appears to be spot on.
Not trying to get round it with distributor - thought I was going back to basics..
Check cam against manufactcturers spec, check tappets, check timing, check fuel....
We shall see!
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Post by dave1800 on Jan 11, 2017 11:32:54 GMT
Your tuner may have adjusted the cam away from the manufacturer's spec by advancing or retarding the whole profile by the vernier to shift the power curve down or up the rev band to suit your needs - eg trackday will be different from your French rally in the mountains.
regards
David
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Post by andrewa on Jan 11, 2017 15:01:10 GMT
Who knows!
Am setting everything to std specs for the cam.
Will report back as I say.
Cheers
Andrew
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Post by andrewa on Jan 17, 2017 16:50:50 GMT
Well, started rolling road session with a quick warm up which showed she was giving about 65 hp albeit with loads of torque. Quite a drop off from 90-ish previously.
Compression/drop down test done and that's where session ended!
1 & 4 are losing 15% but 2 & 3 are losing 60% so I guess it's off with her head to see what going on.
Also am concerned that temp gauge always sits on the low side - how do I test it - am concerned it might be under-reading!
Cheers
Andrew
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Post by dave1800 on Jan 24, 2017 1:45:06 GMT
Shame the music tracks got pulled they went very well with the video. Do you have the original audio track of the engine? regards David Ok - here we go - first attempt at this sort of thing - I know it goes on a bit - make sure you have sound and speakers on - don't be too harsh! |
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Post by andrewa on Jan 24, 2017 5:52:29 GMT
Hi David - took political decision to have music instead as camera picked up all in car chat perfectly - too perfectly!
Perhaps I'll drop in the soundtrack from the Bullitt car chase instead!
Cheers
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Post by andrewa on Jan 25, 2017 13:33:34 GMT
Head off - all ok - just a gasket. Having bronze guides while they're at it.
Expecting great things on next trip to rolling road!
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Post by Penguin45 on Jan 25, 2017 16:29:38 GMT
Gone between 2 + 3?
Chris.
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Post by andrewa on Jan 25, 2017 21:52:14 GMT
Yes siree!
Will post a pic or two - nothing dramatic though!
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Post by dave1800 on Jan 26, 2017 0:53:41 GMT
We could make this a quiz question! You are probably right as that's where the two exhaust valves (2,3)are adjacent so probably the greatest heat differential, but I'll go for 3-4 as that's been my experience in the past. David Gone between 2 + 3? Chris. |
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Post by andrewa on Jan 26, 2017 22:14:14 GMT
Between 2+3 was the main bit but starting to show between 3+4.
Head had gone a bit banana shaped - had to take 0.008" off to get it flat + exhaust side a bit wavy - now flat.
Best guess is not torqued down properly from day one, second guess dodgy cooling, third guess - bad luck.
Will investigate cooling further and take special care with torquing and retorquing - despite it supposedly being unnecessary these days according to many.
Cheers
A
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Post by Penguin45 on Jan 26, 2017 23:46:43 GMT
The Book says 45lb/ft and re-torque after 500 miles. I can see this being different on a "performance" engine - did Peter not have any suggestions?
Chris.
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