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Post by Nick RS on Oct 2, 2013 20:29:53 GMT
David,
My parts list has two repair kits.
8G 8992 covers cars up to body number 62080 (Austin & Morris) or 6928 (Wols)
18G 8525 covers those after to 1969 when my list was published
I am guessing this split could be Mk1 & Mk11
There are also two codes for the whole assembly with the same body split 13H 2571 & 13 H4469 respectively.
Some of the internal parts seem to be interchangeable
As an aside, I didn't realise that the G Valve activated the brake light.
Nick
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Post by dave1800 on Oct 3, 2013 2:54:55 GMT
Thanks Alexander. I imagine the 3 Litre front to rear balance is much less biased to the front than the Landcrab, so imagine that the compensating valve if any would be different especially with the self levelling rear suspension to consider. It does sound as though the ADO16 lack of rear brake pressure could have been due to a g sensor sticking shut. If it sticks open that will cause rear wheel lock up. Regards David Actually, from the top of my head, I do not know if the 3 Litre uses a G-sensing valve or a proportioning device - there is no such thing in the engine compartment at least. Our LHD 1800s are both Mk2 and still fitted with the single circuit brakes, apart from the brake servo it uses the same setup as the UK. I remember some friends over here had problems with the rear brakes on ADO16s, but the problem was that no pressure/brake force was registered at the rear wheels. A change of the limiting valve repaired this, but again I do not know if this was the g-sensor type or a limiting valve (I suppose the former, as I cannot see the later one fail in such way). Regards, Alexander |
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Post by dave1800 on Oct 3, 2013 3:00:55 GMT
Thanks. Can you tell whether the ball and associated components are identical in the two valves? The brake light switch is screwed in to the Mk1 G valve but not the Mk11, can you remind me where it is fitted, thanks. regards David David, My parts list has two repair kits. 8G 8992 covers cars up to body number 62080 (Austin & Morris) or 6928 (Wols) 18G 8525 covers those after to 1969 when my list was published I am guessing this split could be Mk1 & Mk11 There are also two codes for the whole assembly with the same body split 13H 2571 & 13 H4469 respectively. Some of the internal parts seem to be interchangeable As an aside, I didn't realise that the G Valve activated the brake light. Nick |
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Post by Nick RS on Oct 3, 2013 18:49:41 GMT
David,
At second sight it looks a bit more complicated. The body cut-off 62080 looks to be LHD only. RHD goes up to 65730 in my parts list. Give me a few days and I should be able to scan some pages and and send you a PM.
Mk11s have the stop lamp switch activated by the brake pedal, or at least mine does.
Nick
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Post by andrewa on Jun 27, 2014 7:30:25 GMT
I have problem (with car!) that I suspect is G valve related. After very hard braking the brakes (appears to be rears) drag a lot - sometimes to the extent of making forward progress nigh on impossible. After waiting a few minutes all returns to normal and I can drive off. Calipers are recon and I've checked them again, master cylinder has been changed, servo tested and all ok. As above will check again the rear brakes/cylinders etc but failing that, sounds like valve may need a rebuild. Any views? All brakes pipes are new btw.
Cheers
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Post by dave1800 on Jun 27, 2014 12:46:26 GMT
I'll float some ideas for you to consider and hopefully someone will come up with some better suggestions. If the fault is with the G valve not releasing / rear brakes I would expect the rear of the car to dip as you try and drive forward just as though you had the handbrake on. If not you need to determine which wheel(s)are affected. Given the symptoms I believe it is most likely a hydraulic problem and not a mechanical issue with sticking pistons or handbrake but worth double checking. You could try a sharp tap on the G valve body to see if it frees up. If not when the symptoms appear you could try and isolate if it is due to pressure in the brake lines by releasing it at various locations:- at the m/s cylinder outlet to isolate a m/s fault if OK then at the G valve outlet to isolate a possible fault in the valve if OK at the servo outlet to isolate a possible servo problem. The fluid should only come out slowly not high pressure when you loosen the connections. If you pump the brake pedal with the engine off to bleed the air from the servo does this have any effect? I see you have new brake pipes, are you 100% sure about all of the flexible rubber brake hoses. They can and do collapse internally to create a (leaky)non return valve even though they look fine from outside. My friend had this last year on his MGB clutch. regards David I have problem (with car!) that I suspect is G valve related. After very hard braking the brakes (appears to be rears) drag a lot - sometimes to the extent of making forward progress nigh on impossible. After waiting a few minutes all returns to normal and I can drive off. Calipers are recon and I've checked them again, master cylinder has been changed, servo tested and all ok. As above will check again the rear brakes/cylinders etc but failing that, sounds like valve may need a rebuild. Any views? All brakes pipes are new btw. Cheers |
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Post by andrewa on Jul 1, 2014 20:52:56 GMT
Yes..have just tried it...when I pump the brakes like a lunatic with the engine off or idling the brakes free off...what does this mean!?
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Post by dave1800 on Jul 2, 2014 0:30:33 GMT
I think this very probably rules out flexible hose issues but it would be very helpful to know whether it is just the rear brakes or all four that are sticking. If just the rear, that points towards it being the G valve, if all four the m/s or servo in which case try releasing fluid pressure as previously suggested. You can try this to see if the ball in the G valve is the culprit, it may work. Apply the handbrake, then apply the foot brake and release the handbrake while maintaining pressure on the foot brake. Regards David Yes..have just tried it...when I pump the brakes like a lunatic with the engine off or idling the brakes free off...what does this mean!? |
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Post by andrewa on Jul 5, 2014 16:29:01 GMT
Got rebuild kit rebuild kit from Tony Wood and having fitted it and tested it, it seems we're cured.....also got shot of annoying vibration by removing heater completely....now "export spec!".
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Post by Penguin45 on Jul 8, 2014 16:08:30 GMT
I take it things haven't gone entirely to plan?
Chris.
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