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Post by richard on Aug 13, 2013 17:07:47 GMT
Hi, does anyone know what socket size fits the front lower balljoints? Also, can they be removed in situ or does the hub etc have to come off? Hope someone can help.
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Post by Penguin45 on Aug 13, 2013 17:19:29 GMT
Dooh - in Cornwall. Sockets in Yorkshire........ 'Crab in Yorkshire........
46mm from memory, but it needs to be really deep. Spanner is actually a better bet. And yes, you can do it without pulling the whole hub.
Can confirm next week - come on chaps, tell richard the answer.
Chris.
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 14, 2013 1:35:28 GMT
Hi Richard If you become a member of the following Australian forum www.austineighteenhundred.com.au you can download engineering drawings of many of the tools used on the Landcab including the ball joint sockets and spanners. You may wish to consider unscrewing the ball joints instead of slitting them to avoid damaging the rubber boot. The joints can be re-shimmed and greased if the play is not excessive and they are not damaged. I would normally advise not to disturb the hub more than absolutely necessary. 18G 1025 Swivel hub ball pin spanner 18G 1030/1 Steering rack ball joint spanner 18G 1030/2 This website may be useful for Andrew dismantling the engine and gearbox too. Regards David Hi, does anyone know what socket size fits the front lower balljoints? Also, can they be removed in situ or does the hub etc have to come off? Hope someone can help. |
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Post by richard on Aug 14, 2013 8:43:59 GMT
Thanks David and Chris. I've already removed the caliper and disc to get the dust shield off to try an inch and 3/4 socket I'd borrowed. It's slightly too big so I'm guessing inch and 11/16 which is 43mm I think. But I don't want to buy one before I'm sure. I guess a ring spanner will be better than a socket anyway. It looks like it's going to be a tough one to remove! There's loads of play in the old joint; new one on the way from Tony Wood of LOCI.
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 14, 2013 9:40:10 GMT
The figure on the engineering drawing I quoted is 45.23mm which is over 1.75". As far as I recall there was only one size but probably better to wait for the joint to arrive and check it out. I think 1:11/16 was what I used. Grateful if you could let me know the outcome so I can advise the webmaster. It may be that the Australian crabs had different ball joints from a local supplier. Regards David Update I've just heard from Tony the webmaster of the Oz site. He has just measured a ball joint and confirmed measurements of 45.2 to 45.3 mm, so it looks as though there are different joints around, whether this is UK v Australia we don't know. So my advice hang on! Thanks David and Chris. I've already removed the caliper and disc to get the dust shield off to try an inch and 3/4 socket I'd borrowed. It's slightly too big so I'm guessing inch and 11/16 which is 43mm I think. But I don't want to buy one before I'm sure. I guess a ring spanner will be better than a socket anyway. It looks like it's going to be a tough one to remove! There's loads of play in the old joint; new one on the way from Tony Wood of LOCI. |
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Post by Penguin45 on Aug 14, 2013 17:54:47 GMT
I was pretty close!  P45. |
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Post by richard on Aug 14, 2013 20:59:12 GMT
45mm. I will try to beg or borrow something of that size.
Thanks for all your help. I'll let you know if it puts up a fight.
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 15, 2013 0:03:15 GMT
Yes, but you are saying 1:3/4" is too big and that is 44.5mm if my maths are right. regards David 45mm. I will try to beg or borrow something of that size. Thanks for all your help. I'll let you know if it puts up a fight. |
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Post by richard on Aug 15, 2013 18:53:10 GMT
Yes, but you are saying 1:3/4" is too big and that is 44.5mm if my maths are right. regards David 45mm. I will try to beg or borrow something of that size. Thanks for all your help. I'll let you know if it puts up a fight. I think it must be a cheap socket because I subsequently managed to borrow a gauge to measure the bolt; it was 45 mm. I couldn't understand it either. Thanks Richard |
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Post by ahctog1 on Aug 16, 2013 8:39:22 GMT
I have a 1 13/16" socket for this.   |
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Post by richard on Aug 17, 2013 20:14:30 GMT
Thanks for your offer...but I've ordered one now. Although won't get a chance to use it til next weekend. Here's the car  Richard |
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Post by richard on Aug 23, 2013 22:31:24 GMT
Yep, it was a bit of a pain to get off. The swivel pillar had to come off and put in a vice, heated up and eventually it came out. Just need to bleed the brakes tomorrow then off for the MOT again.
Thanks for all your help again.
Richard
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Post by Penguin45 on Aug 23, 2013 23:54:33 GMT
They can be real little s@ds sometimes. When the taper comes free before the nylock is one of my worst ones - two evenings before I got it off, with no usable remains. I was mildly ashamed of myself.
Anyway, good luck with the test; let us know how you get on. She's a good looking "S".
Chris.
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 24, 2013 1:19:58 GMT
Chris I'm probably missing your point but when this happens why can't you tighten the nylock nut and pull the taper joint together hard, then try and loosen the nylock nut again? regards David They can be real little s@ds sometimes. When the taper comes free before the nylock is one of my worst ones - two evenings before I got it off, with no usable remains. I was mildly ashamed of myself. Anyway, good luck with the test; let us know how you get on. She's a good looking "S". Chris. |
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Post by ahctog1 on Aug 24, 2013 21:40:01 GMT
They can be real little s@ds sometimes. When the taper comes free before the nylock is one of my worst ones - two evenings before I got it off, with no usable remains. I was mildly ashamed of myself. Anyway, good luck with the test; let us know how you get on. She's a good looking "S". Chris. I'm assuming you mean the upper one, with the lower try putting a jack under it. With the upper, when replacing it use a standard nut to pull it in and then when tight replace it with a nylock. |
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