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Post by indianajones on Apr 29, 2014 9:41:07 GMT
Thanks for the advice Peter, it's much appreciated -Andrew
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Post by threelitre on Apr 29, 2014 9:54:12 GMT
Well, recharging Hydragas units is a doddle compared to the idea of fitting new rubber to Hydrolastic units... We have done about 36 or so Hydragas units so far, and all successfully. Driving a Princess with freshly filled front Nitrogen springs is indeed a revelation!
Regards,
Alexander
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Post by indianajones on Apr 29, 2014 9:59:20 GMT
So Hydragas is easier to service compared to Hydrolastic? I thought it was the other way round. Shows you how much I know then!
-Andrew
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Post by threelitre on Apr 29, 2014 11:14:56 GMT
So Hydragas is easier to service compared to Hydrolastic? I thought it was the other way round. Shows you how much I know then! -Andrew No, they are exactly the same to service. But long term prospect for repair/replacement is currently in favour of Hydragas as many units will still give a long service life when regassed. Hydrolastic units keep fit longer, but the time that they will no longer be serviceable will come - replacing the rubber spring in them will be a different taks than welding a valve holder onto a Hydragas sphere. Regards, Alexander
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Post by dave1800 on Apr 29, 2014 11:36:15 GMT
Hi Peter I owned an Ambassador many years ago after a Landcrab and know what you mean about the handling. The hatchback was very useful for carrying large loads though. I have heard tales about the rear suspension collapsing on the wedges without finding out any specific details. As you seem to be familiar with the structural inside out corrosion problems, I wonder if you could give any pointers for Andrew and anyone else here who may be tempted as how to detect this as an issue on a potential purchase. Many thanks David I own both two Landcrabs (1800) and a Princess (2200). Rust: Beware of suspension front and rear. Essential structure may corrode from inside, making it very dangerous. Cheers Peter
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Post by foglaursen on Apr 29, 2014 13:50:37 GMT
Here is a bit more about corrosion of the Princess: The front suspension lower arm has two mounting points. The rear butterfly bush rubber can loosen from the outer metal, thus letting water in. Consequently the metal will slowly disappear although it looks sound from outside. The front bush is fixed to a funnel shaped construction. Unfortunately the bottom is closed, so water will stay at the bottom causing corrosion which eventually makes the structure disintegrate. This is contrary to the Landcrab which has an open aluminium structure. I have experienced both these problems The rear suspension contains a tube fixed to the cross tube mounting. The fixing points can corrode badly, although this is visible. What is not visible is the internal side of the tube. This can also corrode. Finally the cross tube mounting is fixed to the body with only two bolts. This place on the body is also hollow, and can corrode without being noticed. Cheers Peter
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Post by dave1800 on Apr 29, 2014 14:20:27 GMT
Thanks Peter That's very useful information about potentially very dangerous issues which could possibly be missed on statutory safety checks if the operator is not familiar with the cars, which is now likely. As you point out, much of this corrosion is either hidden or difficult to check so any owners or potential owners need to have this checked out carefully. regards David Here is a bit more about corrosion of the Princess: The front suspension lower arm has two mounting points. The rear butterfly bush rubber can loosen from the outer metal, thus letting water in. Consequently the metal will slowly disappear although it looks sound from outside. The front bush is fixed to a funnel shaped construction. Unfortunately the bottom is closed, so water will stay at the bottom causing corrosion which eventually makes the structure disintegrate. This is contrary to the Landcrab which has an open aluminium structure. I have experienced both these problems The rear suspension contains a tube fixed to the cross tube mounting. The fixing points can corrode badly, although this is visible. What is not visible is the internal side of the tube. This can also corrode. Finally the cross tube mounting is fixed to the body with only two bolts. This place on the body is also hollow, and can corrode without being noticed. Cheers Peter
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Post by indianajones on Apr 29, 2014 23:19:21 GMT
Cheers for the advice Peter, sounds like each car has it's own special 'issues' to deal with.
Both also seem to have the same spares situation, most service items are around, but trim, displacers and bodywork are very hard to find.
-Andrew
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Post by indianajones on May 7, 2014 9:21:03 GMT
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Post by dave1800 on May 8, 2014 1:03:53 GMT
I saw a Landcrab like this once competing in rallycross in Worcestershire. I was told at the time that they didn't need to brace the body at all once the roof was cut off. Not so good for the South Island winter I guess! regards David
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Post by indianajones on May 8, 2014 19:25:41 GMT
I would believe that for the 1800 and yup, you'd freeze pretty quickly in the winter (which we're moving into now, the mrs is not happy!)
-Andrew
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Post by Penguin45 on May 8, 2014 19:35:30 GMT
Blimey, Indy. I dare you to stick that one up on the Wolseley Forum! Wait for the screams....... Chris.
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Post by indianajones on May 8, 2014 22:08:44 GMT
Blimey, Indy. I dare you to stick that one up on the Wolseley Forum! Wait for the screams....... Chris. lol way ahead of you mate -Andrew
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Post by Penguin45 on May 8, 2014 23:55:17 GMT
Ah - yes, so you did. I have posted an appropriate response there, in my role as Technical Director of the Wolseley Owners Club. P45.
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Post by indianajones on May 12, 2014 9:55:04 GMT
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