|
|
Post by dave1800 on Sept 12, 2013 10:48:18 GMT
I cannot recall the precise details but the drilling was made at the top of the cables, it simply reduces the pressure build up am but am not sure where. I will try and find more if I can. One option to consider is to swop the whole cable assembly with the blue car. That way you can see if there is a relatively simple remedy. (I assume the blue car still has a cable change, I can't recall?) regards David Hydraulic lock. Where to drill, Dave? On the casing where the gear stick sits? Will it have to be in the bottom, to drain the oil, or could it be on top like a rear axle vent? Regards, T |
|
|
|
Post by tommydp on Sept 12, 2013 11:21:20 GMT
OK..
Well, the cable assembly is the same as on the engine/ box I just took out because of bearing noise etc. I had no trouble with gearing on the previous engine/ box. I guess it boils down to a need to take the lump out again, change the complete clutch assembly and put over the known good gearbox as it cannot be ruled out that the problem is in the gearbox itself.. Oh, lord..
Not sure if I'm up for it, so might end up getting rid of it.
|
|
|
|
Post by tommydp on Sept 12, 2013 13:55:34 GMT
Was fine going back from work. I opened the PCV valve, as I haven't checked it in along time. It was full of moist/condense/ "mayonaisse". In my experience, this happens for a period when you start using one of this engines again after many years.
Perhaps this could have caused it? I mean the gearbox is also vented through this system, and a non functioning breathing system will affect how smooth the gearchange is. At least in my experience. I could be wrong of course, but find it hard to believe there is a major issue, inside the gearbox etc.
I'll continue driving it every day, and see what happens.
T
|
|
|
|
Post by dave1800 on Sept 12, 2013 23:38:32 GMT
Tommy When you say it is difficult to engage gears when cold, is this just with the engine running? If it is also difficult with the engine off and not using the clutch this would point to the gear change mechanism. I think if you keep driving it and the gears don't crunch as long as it is fine when warmed up it is unlikely to be doing any serious damage and may just sort itself out. Not sure whether the breathing system will affect gear changing but worth keeping an eye on it to see whether there is a good reason, eg locked filler cap vent or breather pipe. Regards David Was fine going back from work. I opened the PCV valve, as I haven't checked it in along time. It was full of moist/condense/ "mayonaisse". In my experience, this happens for a period when you start using one of this engines again after many years. Perhaps this could have caused it? I mean the gearbox is also vented through this system, and a non functioning breathing system will affect how smooth the gearchange is. At least in my experience. I could be wrong of course, but find it hard to believe there is a major issue, inside the gearbox etc. I'll continue driving it every day, and see what happens. T |
|
|
|
Post by tommydp on Sept 13, 2013 3:40:16 GMT
The problem is only with the engine running. The gears never crunch, so I'll just continue using it and see what happens. I'll do an oil and filter change soon, too. I've seen before that some sort of black greyish sludge accumulates around the gear selector mechanism.
Regards, T
|
|
|
|
Post by dave1800 on Sept 13, 2013 7:58:08 GMT
Tommy You seem to have discounted the gear change cables as it functions fine with the engine off. I do not believe it is a gearbox issue but if I had to make an educated guess it would be that the clutch shaft is dragging on the phosphor bronze flywheel bush which has the same effect as the clutch partially engaged when trying to change gear or the clutch plate itself is dragging. However, before panicking have a good look at this article which gives comprehensive details of the measurements you can take to ensure the slave cylinder throw is sufficient. You will see that there were several different clutch plates and release bearings and pushrods; if these are not matched they will lead to problems like this. It could be you have fitted a new release bearing that is not the correct match but can be compensated as described. Clutch throwOne final check; tap the end of the crankshaft pulley to push the crank backwards to the rear of the engine, there should only be a few thousands of an inch float then get someone to actuate the clutch as see how far forward the crank moves. If excessive it means that the crank thrust washers are the wrong size or damaged. Unlikely, but an easy check. If the crank moves forward when the clutch is engaged it effectively reduces the travel and will lead to engine damage (I know from bitter experience). Regards David The problem is only with the engine running. The gears never crunch, so I'll just continue using it and see what happens. I'll do an oil and filter change soon, too. I've seen before that some sort of black greyish sludge accumulates around the gear selector mechanism. Regards, T |
|
|
|
Post by Nick RS on Sept 13, 2013 12:27:05 GMT
Tommy,
I had a similar problem with selecting gears a few months ago. Like yours it was only once the engine had warmed up and I had driven some distance. I couldn't get into second gear with the engine running at any engine speed and had to rely on the flexibility of the engine to get me home with three gears. I adjusted the cables and thought it was OK but a few days later it did it again. I was sure it was the cables and adjusted them yet again. Works OK now though the gearchange still feels a bit sticky. David will know more about this than me but I am wondering if there is enough play / stretch in the cable set-up to allow it to go out of line when warm but seem fine when it is cold?
Really hoping you don't have to pull the powertrain apart again.
Nick
|
|
|
|
Post by tommydp on Sept 13, 2013 21:58:39 GMT
Thanks, Nick and Dave!
It's been fine all day, both cold going to work this morning and when going home from work. It was silky smooth hot, also when creeping in traffic jam for a long time, with a lot of clutching, as I had to go in to town. It's also smoother when changing gears while driving. Really like a hot knife through butter (Norwegian idiom..)
Perhaps cleaning up the breather helped. Dave's thoughts of the clutch/ bush seem more likely though. We'll see.
Regards, Tommy
|
|
|
|
Post by dave1800 on Sept 14, 2013 1:57:23 GMT
Nick is right you certainly don't want to have to pull it down again so everything else needs to be checked first. He mentioned the gear change cable adjustment. I know you are adept at this but is it possible the adjustment is right at one end of the limit on the relevant cables? What you have now is like an intermittent electrical problem. You really need to wait to see if it gets better or fails completely in such a way it will aid definitive diagnosis. I would recommend that you cure the slight leak from the clutch m/s as this could give intermittent variable operation by introducing air which may then self bleed as you drive. If it is a problem with the crankshaft spigot bush eg some grit this may improve with driving. Guess you should never say anything is running well; I'm sure they are tuned into your thoughts  Regards David Thanks, Nick and Dave! It's been fine all day, both cold going to work this morning and when going home from work. It was silky smooth hot, also when creeping in traffic jam for a long time, with a lot of clutching, as I had to go in to town. It's also smoother when changing gears while driving. Really like a hot knife through butter (Norwegian idiom..) Perhaps cleaning up the breather helped. Dave's thoughts of the clutch/ bush seem more likely though. We'll see. Regards, Tommy |
|
|
|
Post by tommydp on Jan 5, 2014 20:39:05 GMT
 Good thing about the mild winter is that you can take the crab for a Sunday trip, in January! No salt on the roads. Tommy |
|
|
|
Post by indianajones on Jan 5, 2014 23:51:57 GMT
Damn salt! Car is looking lovely mate -Andrew |
|
|
|
Post by dave1800 on Jan 5, 2014 23:57:24 GMT
Yes it look really nice. What size / brand of tyres are you using?
David
|
|
|
|
Post by tommydp on Jan 6, 2014 11:28:20 GMT
Thanks!
These are the "winter tyres". They are 175/70-14 studded ones. I think they're Bridgestone or Gislaved. Work great. Don't really notice any difference from the original size.
Tommy
|
|
|
|
Post by dave1800 on Jan 6, 2014 12:28:57 GMT
The recommended replacement for the original 165/14 tyres is 185/70 - 14 but that may be too wide for the 4.5" wheels and I think you indicated these could foul the brake hoses? Do you find the steering any less or more positive or heavy than the originals with your none studded tyres? regards David Thanks! These are the "winter tyres". They are 175/70-14 studded ones. I think they're Bridgestone or Gislaved. Work great. Don't really notice any difference from the original size. Tommy |
|
|
|
Post by tommydp on Jan 6, 2014 18:02:11 GMT
I remember I tried some tyres on a mk 1 which rubbed against the tie rods on full lock. I can't remember what size those tyres were, but I used mk 2 14 inch wheels on it. I don't think they were as wide as 185, which I'd guess will give very limited space between the rear tyre and inner wing. At least on the standard wheels.
I can't say I notice much difference between the 175/70 and 165/80 tyres. That said, I have slight play somewhere in the rack which will need to be fixed. I noticed that the outer edge on the lh front summer tyre was worn. I suspect lh inner tie rod.
It is important to look at alternative tyre dimensions for these cars, as the original size is quite rare, at least up here. I notice some good brands have started producing it again, so called classic range for MGBs among others. These are very expensive though.
To me, 175/70 14 looks like a good alternative and they are not that rare.
Other experiences are welcome.
Tommy
|
|
