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Post by Nick RS on Apr 17, 2014 11:15:25 GMT
I went to look at a 6/110 last week and very nice it was too. Big old thing though and no more space inside than a Landcrab but I guess these days that's not the point. Would definitely need good garage space to give one a home.
Nick
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Post by indianajones on Jun 10, 2014 9:21:00 GMT
Well done, Indy. Now to solve the big puzzle - how to mount the baby seat.  Chris.  Future 'crabber? lol -Andrew |
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Post by Penguin45 on Jun 10, 2014 17:46:47 GMT
Samantha looks like she's enjoying herself.  Chris. |
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Post by indianajones on Jun 10, 2014 19:37:16 GMT
She's generally pretty good in the car, normally just nods off.
Thought I should post something, I feel guilty having not done so for a while/just to let you know I'm still alive and kicking _b
-Andrew
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Post by Penguin45 on Jun 10, 2014 23:47:51 GMT
Busy times! We did it with twins 18 years ago (good grief...) and everything changed. You know what? I wouldn't change a thing. Enjoy it Andrew, it's special and you don't get a second go (unless you have more kids, of course!). The car will wait for you.
Chris.
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Post by dave1800 on Jun 11, 2014 3:06:13 GMT
Often the only way we could get my daughter to sleep was to put her in the car seat and start the engine. It worked like magic fast asleep within a minute. An alternative was to use an electric drill in her bedroom (discovered by accident when we had a pipe leak necessitating ripping up floorboards rapidly). I guess she knew she couldn't compete with the noise! regards David She's generally pretty good in the car, normally just nods off. Thought I should post something, I feel guilty having not done so for a while/just to let you know I'm still alive and kicking _b -Andrew |
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Post by indianajones on Jun 11, 2014 7:30:28 GMT
Busy times! We did it with twins 18 years ago (good grief...) and everything changed. You know what? I wouldn't change a thing. Enjoy it Andrew, it's special and you don't get a second go (unless you have more kids, of course!). The car will wait for you. Chris. Yup, making the most of it, hopefully we'll have no. 2 by the end of next year. Yup, car isn't gonna go anywhere. Just need to make sure she doesn't rust away on me......unlike a few of my rifles did lol (nothing major, just a bit of surface rust i discovered the other day which i have removed and will reblue them soon). Often the only way we could get my daughter to sleep was to put her in the car seat and start the engine. It worked like magic fast asleep within a minute. An alternative was to use an electric drill in her bedroom (discovered by accident when we had a pipe leak necessitating ripping up floorboards rapidly). I guess she knew she couldn't compete with the noise! regards David lol that sounds like it's worth trying! -Andrew |
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Post by indianajones on Jun 16, 2014 20:45:16 GMT
So I was lying in bed last night, not sleeping, (due to a small person in the room making a lot of noise) and thought about some work I could do on the 'crab between semesters.
I was thinking of taking the head off, replacing the gasket and lapping the valves. Would this be a worthwhile exercise?
Cheers,
Andrew
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Post by Penguin45 on Jun 16, 2014 22:57:53 GMT
Pressure test first, I would suggest. Any big differences between the pistons will make further investigation worthwhile. If you're going to take the head off, why not get the hardened inserts fitted on the exhaust valves? You'll only have to lap in the inlet valves then. Otherwise, if it ain't broken........ Chris. |
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Post by indianajones on Jun 17, 2014 0:09:19 GMT
I had a compression test done around 2 years ago and one cylinder was down a bit compared to the rest. Just thinking out loud I guess. As some days she seems to be ok and others she seems to bit not so.
I just think I need to swallow my pride and take her to a tuner to take a look and get her done on a roller with an exhaust meter etc.
If only you lads were closer, I'd be around with a 6 pack and getting you to take a look!
-Andrew
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Post by dave1800 on Jun 17, 2014 0:49:24 GMT
I believe it's worth considering buying a compression tester, something you can keep for many years. You can carry out both dry and wet tests to ascertain whether the problem is due to valve(s), piston rings or the head gasket. If you have one cylinder that is more than circa 15% below the rest it is a waste of time trying to tune the engine beyond getting the timing right and the mixture not lean. If the pressures increase substantially on the wet test (ie a couple of squirts of oil into the cylinder) then you most probably have a ring issue. Note there will (nearly) always be an increase over the dry reading with an engine that has done a few miles. If there is a head gasket leak this is frequently between cylinders 2 and 3 so both will read low. Also check for oil in the water and water in the oil. If it runs OK some days and not others this requires a bit of detective work. I would start at the distributor to ensure the weights and shaft are not sticking and also the vacuum advance mechanism and check all the ignition LT and HT is sound. You could always send us a video along with the pack of beer regards David I had a compression test done around 2 years ago and one cylinder was down a bit compared to the rest. Just thinking out loud I guess. As some days she seems to be ok and others she seems to bit not so. I just think I need to swallow my pride and take her to a tuner to take a look and get her done on a roller with an exhaust meter etc. If only you lads were closer, I'd be around with a 6 pack and getting you to take a look! -Andrew |
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Post by tommydp on Jun 17, 2014 17:45:56 GMT
Hi! If there's one thing I've found out, it's not to touch anything before doing thorough investigation to find the fault. Otherwise you'll end up chasing ghosts and you'll be fed up after doing lots of work which leads to nothing!
I've had cylinder heads off, only to find the fault still present when going for a test drive afterwards. Annoying and a waste of time.
As the gurus have pointed out, investigate if there's a reason to take the head off. First thing to do is a compression test. Before that, make sure the valve clearances are correct. Also, I recommend checking what's going on when the engine is hot. I recently had the head off, put it back on and had excellent compression, 190 spot on on all cylinders. However, the engine still had trouble now and then when hot.
What I recently discovered was surprising, and suddenly it all made sense. I set the clearances by the rule of nine, as stated in the manuals. All fine, but in a bright moment I checked them when the cylinder is on top dead centre on the firing stroke. Obviously there will have to be clearance then too, otherwise the valve will not be completely closed when hot. I was quite surprised to find I couldn't even get the feeler gauge in on one exhaust valve. I set it so I could get the feeler gauge in at tdc, and since then have had no trouble. It goes like a rocket. So, what does this say about my camshaft? No idea, but as long as it runs as it should..
I suggest you start from scratch, paying special attention to valve settings and operation, then ignition and finally fuel/ carburation. I've found them to be sensitive to valve settings. Rather have them a bit to loose than too tight to overcome the ticking. Also, from experience too, check the valve setting remains the same when rotating the pushrod.
Moral of story: find out why you will remove the head before you do it, other than "maybe it gets better". Believe me, I talk from experience!
As Dave says, there is a reason for an engine misbehaving. Find the fault before tearing things apart. You could end up with more trouble afterwards.
Upload a pic of all plugs, in correct order 1 to 4, removed straight after a good run. That can help diagnosing, along with the beer. A video of the engine running at hot idle, also revving it, along with the sound at the exhaust may also help
Best of luck!
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Post by dave1800 on Jun 18, 2014 3:08:10 GMT
Some very good advice Tommy, learned the hard way so not forgotten! You may be interested to know you are not alone in getting different results using the rule of nine and TDC methods for setting the tappet clearances. There are quite a number of reports on the web covering a range of engines. There are probably many reasons for this including inconsistencies due to bent push rods etc as you found.
However, once you are satisfied there is no issue with the valve train the most accurate method I know for ensuring you are measuring the gap to the cam base circle (Google it) is to do one valve at a time by taking the first valve to its maximum opening and then turn the crankshaft by exactly 360 degrees ie camshaft 180 degrees. It takes more time, but not much. Set the gap and move on to the next valve.
The next question is should you set the gap hot or cold? The w/s manual indicates cold but it may be worth also taking a hot measurement to see if there are any anomalies caused for example by the rocker shaft flexing (missing shims?), head warping etc. You will find the hot exhaust valve setting to be maybe a couple of thou less than the inlet valves so not an issue just reflecting the fact they run hotter so expand more.
I think it's also worth stressing that the engines with which I have experience were quite tolerant. Just don't be tempted to overtighten the tappets to try and get rid of the ticking, you will almost certainly reduce power and risk valve/seat damage.
David
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Post by indianajones on Jun 18, 2014 3:52:32 GMT
Cheers for the inspiration, lads. Reading Tommy's thread has also spurred me on.
I'm all fired up now to get cracking on with her again.
I shall make it my mission, in between study sessions (exams next week) to get some photos of the spark plugs and hopefully a video up (my work phone is one of those fancy smart ones, so hopefully can make decent quality videos).
-Andrew
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Post by indianajones on Jun 22, 2014 1:39:15 GMT
 Well before I could do a compression test, I needed to charge my battery. Winter and non-daily use take their toll. With that out of the way I took some readings. I cranked the engine over 5-6 times for each one and got the following readings (No. 1 being the closest to the fan): No. 1 - 159 PSI No. 2 - 159 PSI No. 3 - 156 PSI No. 4 - 152 PSI I then repeated the process with a bit of oil in each cylinder No. 1 - 158 PSI No. 2 - 163 PSI No. 3 - 166 PSI No. 4 - 158 PSI Photo of the plugs, black as the ace of spades, which I found surprising (but then again most of her trips lately have been fairly short).  I also knocked this and snapped it, I can only assume it's the oil pressure reader, as I now have zero pressure showing on the dial. Any ideas on how to fix this?  I did take some video footage, but I'll need to upload that a little later on, hopefully tonight, but if not, sometime during the week. Cheers, Andrew |
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