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Post by tommydp on Jan 4, 2014 10:24:07 GMT
Great news, Andrew! Well done!
Tommy
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Post by indianajones on Jan 10, 2014 22:52:55 GMT
Righto, got a K&N air filter renewal kit, so will get that done soon.
Plan for next month is to change the oil and filter, and also to check the thermostat.
Also what are the signs of head gasket failure?
Cheers,
Andrew
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Post by tommydp on Jan 11, 2014 9:54:47 GMT
Hi Andrew! Head gasket failure: oil in coolant, coolant in oil, loss of coolant, loss of compression. Do a compression test to look for strange readings. Why do you suspect a head gasket failure? I've never experienced it, but know for sure there are lots of other things which can lead to misfiring and bad performance etc. I recommend doing quite a lot of research to rule out everything fuel and ignition related before pulling the head off. A compression test on hot engine being the first. Then, an SU carb which doesn't work as it should can give all sorts of problem. So can dodgy ignition parts, especially new reproduced parts. Don't be fooled by the green Lucas boxes, as the new Lucas stuff is also crap. I've quit using anything but old stock genuine Lucas or Unipart, or components from www.distributordoctor.com. Anything else, like riveted rotor arms etc are in the rubbish bin. Regards, Tommy |
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Post by indianajones on Jan 11, 2014 20:45:11 GMT
Cheers Tommy,
Just thinking out loud, as she's seems a little bit reluctant to go up some of the steeper hills (but she gets up there) and I did have that overheating issue a year ago.
The carb should be ok hopefully as that was rebuilt around a year and a half ago (If I recall correctly).
I've tried one of the new rotor arms, and as you said, utter crap, I took it out and put the old one back in. What should I look for in the ignition system? (it has been converted to electronic mind you) New coil?
Sorry for all the questions!
-Andrew
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Post by tommydp on Jan 11, 2014 21:48:54 GMT
OK. A well functioning 1800 shouldn't have problems going up any hills. They should have loads of pull. I would suspect the ignition or carb, and their settings, rather than head gasket. First of all, set the valve clearances and do a compression test on all cylinders. Did you find the cause for the overheating? Most likely the thermostat imo. If the head gasket caused it, I'm sure you would have noticed by now, and you would have seen lots of smoke form the exhaust.
If OK, it's most likely down to ignition or fuel. I stick to points, and at least it could be a good idea to make it function well with points, before converting to electronic ignition.
What ignition timing do you have? I recall you had a 45 d distributor, remember I was sure you had a Princess engine, in which case you're looking for 3 degrees static or 10 degrees at 1000 rpm if I remember correctly.
Then fuel. When it hesitates, have you tried pulling out the choke? If it improves, it's running lean. This could also cause overheating. How are the plugs after a good drive? Pictures would help.
Are you sure the carb is correctly adjusted? I'm sure I posted the procedure on this thread earlier, but can repeat it if we don't find it.
You have oil in the carb dashpot, right? And not to thin oil?
WHat does it sound like at idle? There should be no splatter or misfiring. A splashy, irregular beat could mean too lean mixture, while rhytmical miss with strong smell of petrol means too rich. There should be a light, rhytmical even exhaust note.
I struggle getting good results from the lifting pin test nowadays, but at least it could indicate if it's too lean or too rich.
Does it start easily? It should. Even in minus 15 degrees, like here today. Mine had to jump start the Rover today and fired right away:-)
Regards, Tommy
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Post by tommydp on Jan 11, 2014 22:41:52 GMT
I've been looking back on this thread, looking at the pics. I notice you've had electronic ignition all the time. How does the firing marks appear on the four segments inside the distributor cap. I'm thinking spark phasing, if it fires correctly when advanced. In other words, if spark from the rotor arm reaches the cap's segments under all conditions? There should be an even "spark wear" across the rotor cap segment. If the spark obviously hit on the end of the segments, there could be a problem when the ignition advances.
Regarding the over heating: did you switch the coolant hoses at the bulk head, going into the heater. The hose from the cylinder head outlet should connect to the bottom pipe going into the heater matrix. In your engine bay picture they were connected the wrong way. This could perhaps give some cooling problems due to air trapped in the heater..
Tommy
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Post by indianajones on Jan 12, 2014 7:29:19 GMT
Cheers Tommy,
Regarding the head gasket failure, I agree, I doubt that's the issue as I would have serious coolant loss and white steam etc which I do not. But I shall invest in a compression tester next pay cheque and check, though in the past I have had a compression check done in the past and one cylinder was a little bit lower, but not by a huge amount if I recall correctly.
Ignition: Yes, 45D with electronic ignition. Can't comment on the firing marks, but shall take a look and photo to share on here (I got a new dizzy cap a year or 2 ago). Again, haven't checked the timing, but can do so as I have a timing light.
Regarding the coolant hoses, I have never touched them since owning the car. I shall swap them around and see how we get on (at the same time I'll check the thermostat and replace the coolant).
Thanks for the tips, has given me something to go with and a better understanding.
-Andrew
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Post by tommydp on Jan 12, 2014 10:50:34 GMT
Sounds good, Andrew. Glad to help.
A compression gauge is a good thing to have, and they're not that expensive.
Sounds like a good idea to do a check and tune up.
The correct procedure for fault finding and tuning is MECHANICAL (engine itself)- IGNITION - CARBURETTOR.
Start with the thermostat/ coolant, then engine itself (valve clearances and compression) then ignition. Finally check carburettor. I'd absolutely check the ignition timing, it may be too retarded given the symptoms. It's easy.
Pics of the plugs after a long drive and possibly the inside of the dizzy cap would help further diagnosis.
Regards, Tommy
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Post by dave1800 on Jan 12, 2014 13:57:50 GMT
Tommy has covered it well. To summarise first check the compression. Low readings on cylinders 2+3 can indicate a head gasket blowing between them (I've had a couple or so like this) and an oil film on the surface of the radiator water also indicates a blowing head gasket. Is there any oil weeping from the head / block interface (gasket)? After checking the compression is ok How to use vacuum gaugecheck the primary causes for an engine overheating which are (a) weak mixture (b) retarded ignition (both give reduced power) (c) wrong or partially failed thermostat, (d) waterways blocked in engine or radiator or (e) a wrong reading on the temperature gauge. Remember what Tommy said, the carb is the last not the first thing to adjust and I recommend buying and learning how to use a vacuum gauge ! Regards David Sounds good, Andrew. Glad to help. A compression gauge is a good thing to have, and they're not that expensive. Sounds like a good idea to do a check and tune up. The correct procedure for fault finding and tuning is MECHANICAL (engine itself)- IGNITION - CARBURETTOR. Start with the thermostat/ coolant, then engine itself (valve clearances and compression) then ignition. Finally check carburettor. I'd absolutely check the ignition timing, it may be too retarded given the symptoms. It's easy. Pics of the plugs after a long drive and possibly the inside of the dizzy cap would help further diagnosis. Regards, Tommy |
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Post by Penguin45 on Jan 12, 2014 21:56:33 GMT
All good stuff - how about something very simple? She hasn't run in months and months, so perhaps a good shakedown is all that's required. Nice long run, bit of mixed driving - fast, under load; just blow the cobwebs out of it. You haven't actually reported any real symptoms after all.
Chris.
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Post by indianajones on Jan 12, 2014 22:11:46 GMT
Chris's plan sounds fun haha, I have given her a bit of a run and blown the cobwebs out of her (I figured she would need that after being off the road for a while).
And fair comment, I haven't really given real symptoms. The two main things I can notice are:
-What I perceive to be a slight lack of power up hills
-An even idle
-Andrew
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Post by indianajones on Jan 24, 2014 10:54:33 GMT
Might grab a new thermostat tomorrow.
84 degrees is what the home market cars used, right?
Cheers,
Andrew
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Post by Penguin45 on Jan 24, 2014 21:07:08 GMT
82°C - standard.
74°C or 77°C - hot climate.
88°C - cold climate.
Chris.
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Post by indianajones on Feb 1, 2014 23:04:21 GMT
So new thermostat (and gasket) has been installed (82C, cheers Chris, manuals confirmed this too).
Valve clearances have been checked (needed to redo 4-5 of them).
Next step is to check the engine timing, which I might get a chance today.
Will be driving to my father-in-laws this month coming, to meet a man who owns a lot of wedges, so that'll be a good long drive to stretch her legs (450ish km)
-Andrew
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Post by indianajones on Feb 2, 2014 3:48:33 GMT
I've set the timing for 10degrees BTDC at 1000RPM.
Will see how she gets on like that, couldn't hear any pinking up the hill, but I'm not 100% sure on what it's meant to sound like. I'm sure my father in law can confirm next time I see him.
Noticed a thud coming from the engine bay during gear changes, I believe this is the servo moving, so will see if I can make a temporary support to confirm this.
-Andrew
PS Sorry for the lack of photos!
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