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Post by dave1800 on Oct 15, 2012 7:09:27 GMT
If it was just the rubber bushes having worn, I don't think you have done any damage, there is some compliance in the lower arm bush anyway to absorb the shock. I would advise not braking hard if you use the car before getting the new bushes. As far as setting is concerned, fit the new bushes etc and use a new nyloc nut tightened to 45-50 ft lbs then have the wheel alignment re-checked. If the castor is not within spec then you will need to check you have the right tie rods - have a look at the w/s manual for details. (Castor angle can be adjusted using different spacer / washers but is actually very difficult to measure without special equipment). Note the castor angle differs from Mk1 to Mk11 to Mk111 and from manual to power steering. In practice the most important thing to check is that both sides are equal so your car doesn't drive like a crab! Regards David Cheers for that Dave, Do you think I might of damaged it by driving the car in it's current state? (I can't be sure when it started to fail, but had noticed something wasn't quite right in the last week). The rod has play in it and can be heard moving when the brakes are applied when in reverse. Is the setting information in the workshop manuals? I must admit I only glanced over it to see what I needed/if I could do it myself. Cheers, -Andrew |
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Post by indianajones on Oct 15, 2012 22:59:00 GMT
Yep I won't be driving her until I get it fixed, got everything I need to do it (well save a torque wrench I really need to get one of those soon), just getting Tony W to send out the replacement parts and then I'll crack into it.
Will also try to remember to take some pictures when doing it (have been badly lately and not doing this!)
-Andrew
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Post by dave1800 on Oct 19, 2012 12:41:30 GMT
Hi Andrew
I found this on a now defunct Oz forum about the tie rods
"Ken ...@landcrab2.freeserve.co.uk landcrab Hi Geoff The Mk1 has +1/4
degree castor and the Mk2 +2 degrees castor to get the same castor on a Mk1 as
the Mk2 use tie rods part number AHA 4289 these are shorter than the standard
rod being 18 55/64ths long Ken."
I do recall seeing a car with one side different to the other - good for circuits where you only need to steer in one direction. After seeing that, I always did a check on my cars.
Regards
David
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Post by indianajones on Oct 30, 2012 9:29:50 GMT
Quick update, I got my tie-rod bushings replaced and got my WOF. I will update in a week or two with some photos. Another update, it looks like the royal 'we' might be driving down to the bottom end (Invercargill) of New Zealand for Christmas next year in the crab'!  -Andrew |
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Post by tommydp on Oct 30, 2012 17:32:08 GMT
Great, Andrew! Looking forward to pics!
Regards, Tommy
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Post by indianajones on Nov 14, 2012 6:55:48 GMT
As promised here is my update on the tie-rod bushings which I needed to replace for my WOF. Get the wheels off the ground as per the workshop manuals, so no weight is on the suspension. Remove the various nuts and bolts as required.  This is what remained of the old bushes.  Also the rods had these 'spacers' on them where the bushes were, I'm guessing a previous owner couldn't find bushes to fit and used slightly larger diameter ones. I'll keep these just in case.  This is the new bush (Thanks to Mr. Wood) installed.  The rest of the process as you no doubt would of figured out is the reverse of taking the rods off. And of course I did both sides, which is good as the other side is naffed too! In other crab news, I have dropped my front seats off to a local upholster to be repaired. In my excitement I forgot to take a 'before' picture, but I found this one on my PC to show the damage on the drivers seat.  The passenger one is much better and only has a split at one of the seams, so nothing too major. The other thing I need to decide soonish is if I go on this 'Great British car rally', ukinnewzealand.fco.gov.uk/en/about-us/working-with-new-zealand/british-car-rally/My funds have been a bit stretched lately with this upcoming holiday, but I am tempted as this is one of the reasons I love owning a classic and not to mention there might no be another one for 15 years! I might just do one or two stages, we'll see! -Andrew |
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Post by indianajones on Nov 22, 2012 0:17:45 GMT
Question, how does one repair the vinyl on the top of the dashboard and the parcel tray?
Where the vinyl meets the speaker cover, it is split and uplifted a bit, and same again on the rear around the speakers (very old, sun damaged etc)
Is it a case of removing them and replacing the vinyl on the card? where would one get the vinyl from? hardware store etc?
I recall seeing photos of Chris and his clan doing this on his crab
Cheers,
Andrew
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Post by Penguin45 on Nov 22, 2012 0:36:52 GMT
We have the wonderful WOOLIES over here. I would have thought that you must have upholsterers at least down there? Anyway - the dash top is a fibre "biscuit", with embedded bolts - the nuts have to be removed from under the metal deck below the dash top before it will come off. The vinyl is glued and stapled to the biscuit. Rear parcel shelf is clipped into place with those door card-type clips, so should just pop off. Chris. |
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Post by indianajones on Nov 22, 2012 1:33:42 GMT
Cheers Chris,
I ask as since I'm looking at doing my dash (I've decided I'm gonna be a bit cheap and not do the Walnut veneer and just sand back the current dash and stain it dark) over the upcoming break I might as well get the top sorted, save having to take it all out again.
-Andrew
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Post by indianajones on Dec 11, 2012 6:07:32 GMT
And here we have the repaired seats   Really glad to go for a drive today, had been a while since I've had the chance (a bit hard with no seats lol) Of course it had been a bitter-sweet day with the news of Dr. Moulton.  -Andrew |
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Post by nz3litre on Dec 13, 2012 0:34:26 GMT
The seats just look great !
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Post by indianajones on Dec 13, 2012 3:19:03 GMT
Cheers The drivers one is certainly a lot nicer to sit in/on now and I don't get yellow foam all over my floor every time I get out. -Andrew |
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Post by indianajones on Dec 22, 2012 5:06:02 GMT
Well you can tell it's summer here in NZ.
Took the crab to the city today, and after getting back the temp gauge was in the upper part of 'N', and just a little over.
I thought ok she's getting a bit hot, better stop, so we do at one of my wife's mates places (was going there regardless), she goes to get her friend, I open the bonnet.
There was a bit of steam coming from the over flow pipe near the cap, waited 5 mins for it to cool, took off the cap and couldn't see any coolant....oh dear lol
So I had 1.5L of water in the back of the crab, put that in.....still not enough......get another 1.5L from the tap outside, that did the trick.
She's never overheated before, but I don't believe any damage has occurred and she was fine for the next trip to the shops.
I'll change the coolant and flush out the radiator tomorrow.
Does the thermostat need to be checked? or perhaps another one more suited for Auckland's hot climate in summer? (almost tropical to be honest)
Cheers,
Andrew
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Post by indianajones on Dec 29, 2012 8:27:11 GMT
Hey lads,
Just been looking at the rear brakes lately, the shoes seem fine so I haven't replaced them. But what is annoying me is the handbrake adjustment/set up.
I've followed the manuals wording, but the handbrake doesn't seem to engage after 4 notches, I have to pull it all the way up for it to work.
Would it be to do with the shoe adjustment? I followed the manual and have the adjuster just off from making them stop.
Any advice/tips?
Cheers
Andrew
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Post by dave1800 on Dec 29, 2012 10:03:18 GMT
Andrew It sounds as though one or more of the handbrake cables could well have stretched so making it impossible to actuate the brakes with three or four clicks. Now do you think the umbrella is best PS ref your earlier posting on overheating, I would never advise adding cold water to an engine that had overheated until it is cool, 5 minutes isn't anything like enough - you run the serious risk of cracking the block or head especially adding 3 litres. Did you check to see if the thermostat was stuck? regards David Hey lads, Just been looking at the rear brakes lately, the shoes seem fine so I haven't replaced them. But what is annoying me is the handbrake adjustment/set up. I've followed the manuals wording, but the handbrake doesn't seem to engage after 4 notches, I have to pull it all the way up for it to work. Would it be to do with the shoe adjustment? I followed the manual and have the adjuster just off from making them stop. Any advice/tips? Cheers Andrew |
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Cheers for that Dave,
