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Post by Penguin45 on Dec 31, 2020 18:19:11 GMT
Last time I was messing about with the heater connections on mine, I took out the ashtray, ashtray holder and the oddments box above it and could just about reach everything. That's a MkII, so not sure if yours will be the same.
Chris.
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Post by jeff on Dec 31, 2020 19:15:15 GMT
Naah no such luck Chris. It a MK1
Jeff
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Post by dave1800 on Jan 1, 2021 8:26:57 GMT
Assuming you have the 3 position ignition switch everything switched through it should turn on and off together including the fan. It does sound as though there may be an issue with the internal contacts of the switch itself through wear, grime or corrosion. I've never taken one apart so unclear as to the construction. Someone else here may be able to throw more light on it. It may be possible to get some contact cleaner spray in through the key slot in the hope it finds its way onto the contacts without taking the switch out?
As an aside, it would be good practice to turn off the blower first before turning off the engine using the key. An inductive load such as the blower and windscreen wiper motors create arcs across the ignition switch contacts which is why modern vehicles use relays to control heavy and inductive loads.
David
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Post by Penguin45 on Jan 1, 2021 13:06:46 GMT
I think we've missed something here. 10vDC is the output from the voltage stabiliser. That's a bi-metallic device, so would take a few seconds to cool down and break the circuit when the power is switched off.
C.
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Post by jeff on Jan 1, 2021 14:10:22 GMT
The heater motor is fed off the 12 volt (A4 fuse) battery side of the voltage stabilizer, on the same connection as clock, and flasher unit. Only the fuel and temp gauges are fed off the 10 volt side..I doubt the heater would run if it was connected to the wrong side and probably cook it due to the excessive current draw.
Anyhow, with the ignition switch playing up I've decided to replace it. In the process I've also decided to rewire/tidy up the rats nest bag of knitting of wires behind the dash. I'm sure to find troubles amongst that lot. So the parcel shelf will have to come out. It's already in tatters so if I can find a half decent replacement, or even make one it's all for the better.
Thanks for all the ideas and advice on this and I will post my findings in due course.
Happy new year to all.
Jeff
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Post by dave1800 on Jan 1, 2021 14:44:20 GMT
Yes, I wondered about that earlier but with the brain engaged I realised that the voltage stabiliser output to the fuel and temperature gauges is an average of 10V made up from the proportion of time on to the time off and this is varied by the battery/ dynamo voltage feed to the regulator. (So, if you test with a digital voltmeter it will switch between the battery voltage and zero) Similar to the way the indicator flasher speed varies - going slower at idle with all the accessories switched on. Both the gauges only respond slowly so you don't see this pulse width modulation (pwm). As Jeff quite rightly says the fan motor current would be far too much for this to handle. Hope this make sense, it was a late night! David I think we've missed something here. 10vDC is the output from the voltage stabiliser. That's a bi-metallic device, so would take a few seconds to cool down and break the circuit when the power is switched off. C. |
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Post by jeff on Jan 8, 2021 22:01:41 GMT
Well now,
After much reading of the very comprehensive history file, I found the heater motor was replaced in 1989 with a "reconditioned unit, wiring altered to suit". I thought it odd having a yellow wire to the under dash switch. (Groan...
So now it's got to come out to find out what's what. I've pretty much ruled out any other bits accept the control box.
I note from an old Haynes Manual, but not the Leyland manual, that "removal of the motor is possible with the heater in situe but access is better with it removed".
Eh? How? Has anybody managed this in a right hand drive car??
Either way the full width parcel shelf will have to come out so is it a nightmare to remove? Mine has no top panel, and the rear upright is well busted and warped.
In the unlikely event that somebody out there has a complete spare MK1 parcel shelf (full width version), I would be very keen to beg or buy it.
At least my new Lucas ignition switch has arrived but no luck locating a new old stock Lucas 22 amp RB340 control box. There must be one tucked away somewhere, they were very common back in the day. I'm not overly keen on the new reproduction versions even at £20. The reviews are not great.
Oh well, upwards and onwards and if anyone can help with one of those or a parcel shelf, I would be a very happy bunny indeed.
Cheers all
Jeff
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Post by 1800heap on Jan 10, 2021 23:04:53 GMT
Hi Jeff
I can't see how it is possible to remove the fan without removing the whole unit. I think you have to take the back off to get it out. That is the side nearest the fire wall. You would have the type where the contols are attached to the heater body. On the Mk2 I think they are attached to the parcil shelf and linked with cables. The unit from the Mk2 is much easier to get out but still has to come out I think to do a fan swap. I am not sure when the changeover point was for Mk2's.
Nick
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Post by tonymark3 on Jan 11, 2021 15:58:30 GMT
 973085DE-F07B-4D42-A81A-EF9D618C2540 by Anthony Surman, on Flickr This was mine in the process of removal. I had to remove the shelf. As you can see this type has the cable controls. I can see any access to the motor from this side. And yes, I did tidy up the wiring properly before re-installing! Tony S |
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Post by tonymark3 on Jan 11, 2021 15:59:52 GMT
Sorry, should read cant see any access from this side. Fat fingers.
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Post by Penguin45 on Jan 11, 2021 18:15:10 GMT
The side panels edges are turned over and are effectively end caps. No way the front's going to come off in situ.
Chris.
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Post by jeff on Jan 16, 2021 13:04:48 GMT
Great pic. And yes, the parcel shelf will need to come out on a MK1.
Thanks for all the input but now I thought I'd start by replacing the dodgy ignition switch. More trauma on a separate post. Groan.
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