|
|
Post by andrewa on Dec 15, 2016 0:01:42 GMT
What a shame - this is exactly what I did to my Dad's 1800, 30 + years ago.
Depending on what you want to do I'd be thinking of a secondhand engine/gearbox and just drop the whole lot in and get going - there's a few around in the £150 to £300 bracket or a new old stock one from Ray House.
But I'm always looking for the quick/easy fix!
Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
|
|
|
|
Post by dave1800 on Dec 15, 2016 0:20:19 GMT
Was that a single valve head? David What a shame - this is exactly what I did to my Dad's 1800, 30 + years ago. |
|
|
|
Post by dave1800 on Dec 15, 2016 0:32:12 GMT
Just be aware that the crab head uses the larger inlet valves but these were only used on the MGB 18V engines for a few years before they reverted to the slightly smaller valves as found on the Mk1 crab. Probably not a big deal but it may possibly require some SU needle tweaking. As Chris notes, use double valve springs and their associated components. Before purchasing any second hand head be careful to inspect it for cracks as these are quite common unfortunely. There are plenty of pics if you Google MGB cyclinder head cracks, but the head needs to be stripped and thoroughly cleaned to identify many of the points where they crack. David The 18V cylinder head from the MGB pops up regularly and is a drop on fit. Twin valve springs when it comes back together...... Chris. |
|
|
|
Post by paulfrance on Dec 16, 2016 18:23:06 GMT
Many thanks to all will come back once all stripped down and ready for examination.
Paul
|
|
|
|
Post by dave1800 on Dec 17, 2016 2:10:22 GMT
You (and all owners), may wish to read the experience of a valve dropping on a crab in Australia. Not due to a spring breaking but valve spring retainer failure due to wear. The post describes how to check whether imminent failure is a possibility and having the double valve springs won't help. Thanks to Eriks for posting the article on his website (around half way down the page) Austin 1800 valve retainer failureDavid |
|
|
|
Post by paulfrance on Dec 23, 2016 9:38:39 GMT
23/12/2016-Good morning back again with an update,as we all now know head is a door stop job but luckily I think i have another one to hand(these parts, no in fact all parts are rather thin on the ground here in Central France!) Engine now out and that job has given a problem ,for which I would be grateful for advice:in all the manuals its said to disconnect the drive shafts and push them out of the way!! Thank goodness I had a helper on hand as on my own it would have been very difficult,no way would these shafts could be pushed out of the way-we had to swing the engine from side to side and at the same time twisting and lifting to clear.No way can I see myself on my own getting it back in,the only way that I can see is to free the hubs off their bottom swivel pins and pull the wheels up and out-advice please-again I am going to attempt to post a photo. Engine and box now separated and offending piston and rod out once all cleaned up will have to dive into the box of spares and see whats there.I have a set of new valves which I was going to fit into a 1960 MGA Mk 1 1600cc plus valve springs I am hoping that they might fit?  Thanks to all again and for those like myself who will be eating turkey sandwiches whilst still working away in the `shop Merry Xmas Attachment Deleted |
|
|
|
Post by snoopy11 on Dec 23, 2016 17:01:19 GMT
It is possible to put the engine back in with the drive shafts in place but it is a bit of a job having to pull them back to get the spiders back in place. We have done it that way a couple of times and I doubt it could be done that way on your own.
Working on your own you will probably need to swing the hubs back.
Engine components are available from Moss. I'm sure someone clever will put a link up.
|
|
|
|
Post by dave1800 on Dec 24, 2016 4:58:17 GMT
I used to remove the engines with the radiator and manifold attached but removed them for refitting to give more room. My hoist was a mechanical version of the typical hydraulic versions on wheels and allowed precise lowering a few mm at the time. I preferred it to the hydraulic versions. I found the trick was to attach the engine to the hoist with rope such that it leant back slightly and then to loosely reconnect the drive shaft spiders at the highest point possible using jacks to tilt the engine as needed. I did this alone and only on one occasion did I find it necessary to drop a ball joint. It just took quite a lot of patience. Not sure whether your MGA valve parts will fit, it depends on the cylinder head you are going to fit. Here is a link Moss MG partsI recall having had problems with variations in the valve stem dimensions so you will need to ensure they match the valve guides as well as ensuring the other obvious measurements. What damage did you find on the piston and rod? Enjoy the turkey sarnies! David |
|
