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Post by hydrolastic on Sept 3, 2016 16:39:29 GMT
Hello Guys, Aaron here. Some of you know me as the guy with the 1800 V6 racecar. A while back i was in contact with a 1800 owner and got to talking about the 1800 he had. He commented that he did not drive it as it was in the back of his warehouse and hadn't moved in many years. I purchased it then and there, sight unseen. It is exactly as he described. 99% rust free. Just now a almost 50 year survivor. Complete and running. super happy about the car, pictures soon. Aaron
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Post by Penguin45 on Sept 3, 2016 23:35:41 GMT
Hi Aaron, I was wondering what you were up to. It sounds like a good find. Going to just enjoy this one or are you off racing again?
Chris.
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Post by hydrolastic on Sept 11, 2016 19:07:39 GMT
Hello Chris. We have been racing the mini this year and the racing 1800 (Maxine) is parked for now. But she will get back up to speed again. This one is just going to be my for show car and will stay as an original car as long as i own it. I am getting closer to the Hydrolastic trifecta as i have my original restored 1100 and my in a million pieces hydrolastic New Zealand mini. Anyway couple of things to note are the boblehead dog in the back window. Its name is Gromit a cartoon character thats kind of interesting. The rest of the story on the car is that it came from Canada south Alberta to be specific. This is a "high desert" area and cars don't rust like in most places. It does need some TLC and i plan on getting it to look better. I also need to get the carbs sorted out as the mixtures and linkage has problems. I also want to get the original wheels on it but i think The previous owner was onto something as the car handles wonderfully with its current setup. There seems to be stuff missing on the dash and it will be tidied up as well. Gromit also came with a mini steering wheel but i immediately put the pristine one from maxine on and it looks great! There are also a engine mount issue and it is leaking oil from somewhere but i did not figure out where but it was about a teaspoon five minutes after i park it. Then it stops. Here is a link to the pictures s1346.photobucket.com/user/Hydrolastic/library/Austin%201800%20Gromit?sort=3&page=1 |
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Post by Penguin45 on Sept 11, 2016 19:22:06 GMT
That doesn't look bad at all. Fair bit of surface rust to clean off, but looks good. Twin HIF4s as well, so someone has been MGB raiding at some point in its past. Not that I would ever have done anything like that myself. Hem hem.    A few of your pics to share. I do like the wheels. I wonder what they came from? Wallace and Gromit are legends over here. Gromit is busy welding away in Bullyboy's posts! Cheers, Chris. |
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Post by hydrolastic on Sept 24, 2016 20:46:38 GMT
Thanks for posting the pictures. I am not good enough on computers to get that to work.
First item on Gromit is to get the fuel pump fixed. It seems to have had a engine mounted pump but right now it has the facet electric rattle box pump. Having minis and 1100's i have come to like the SU pumps for the tick,tick. I was thinking of putting a MGB pump with the banjo type fittings. what do you guys do? I also am going to start on finishing the carbs.There are some issues as to what i have available here (in the US) mostly mgb stuff. There was a box that came with the car so i will set all this out and take a photo. Aaron
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Post by Penguin45 on Sept 24, 2016 23:55:20 GMT
The MGB SU pump is pefectly up to the job. Just run a switched live up to the rear and off you go. I have an "SU type" pump ( I think it was German) tucked into the back valance on the blue car and it's been trouble free. The red one has a Facet on rubber mounts. You can hear it when you switch on, but not when the car is running. If you use the twin HIFs, you might want to change the needles to the AAA ones, looking at the air filter system. You have Moss over there - a lot of MGB stuff is absolutely fine for our engine. Photobucket - to stick up pics, hover over your picture of choice. Click on "Share" on the menu which appears, then "IMG". The link copies, then all you've got to do is paste it on here.  Simple - honest! Even I can do it..... Chris. |
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Post by hydrolastic on Nov 12, 2016 17:10:28 GMT
Hello, My wife and i usually give each other Christmas gifts based on what we want most. I was thinking of getting Gromits seats redone. However i don't see any seat covers out there on the internet. What do you do for torn seats in England? Is there a secret source out there? Second Choice would be carpets, Same question. Aaron
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Post by snoopy11 on Nov 12, 2016 20:26:24 GMT
What do you do for torn seats in England
Second Choice would be carpets, Same question.
Seats.
You will probably need to find an automotive trimmer. I don't know of replacement covers.
Carpets
I can only suggest Coverdale Carpets to get them at a reasonable cost. I'm sure someone clever will be able to post a link.
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Post by Penguin45 on Nov 12, 2016 20:48:52 GMT
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Post by hydrolastic on Dec 21, 2016 4:12:07 GMT
Hello guys, One of the race team guys came over we were going to get a bite and decided to take Gromit. put it in neutral and he started right up. Put the clutch in and nothing! The pedal went straight to the floor. No problem i would take a minute and bleed it. Greg pumped it and i did the bleed nipple. Minimal movement on the arm. It seems the master is kaput. Local shop Autosport is looking for a replacement. Just wondering if the master is a 1800 specific item or does it cross reference to a TR6 or another car. Just for info it could be the slave cylinder but i am going to replace them both. Aaron
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Post by Penguin45 on Dec 21, 2016 12:30:21 GMT
Clutch master cylinders were 13H 992, 13H 7694 and 13H 8183. These all resolve to Girling part number 64067751. Seal repair kit is SP.1963, which has numerous applications, mainly with Triumph cars. It's a 5/ 8" cylinder, so there are numerous aftermarket ones available. Willwood is probably the best known over your side of the pond - WELLER RACING show it in stock, but you'll probably know the suppliers over there far better than I. Alternatively, you could get the cylinder sleeved with a stainless or brass insert. Expensive, but a one time fix. Chris. |
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Post by hydrolastic on Jan 29, 2017 21:13:39 GMT
Thank you Guys, I have finally gotten to Gromits Clutch and the slave cylinder seems to be the issue. The bore of the slave seems to be 1" which i don't think is right. The master is 5/8 I intend to replace both if i can find a source.   |
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Post by Penguin45 on Jan 30, 2017 0:12:08 GMT
Edited your post to pop the pictures up. 1" on the slave is quite right. Small cylinder pushing a big one results in a lighter pedal. The slave shoudn't have to move very far to release the clutch. Unlike the MGB....
Seal kit for the slave was SP2196. Still plenty out there if you employ the services of Google. Usual caveats apply with anything to do with hydraulic cylinders - condition of bore is critical; sleeving is often an (expensive) but one time solution.
Chris.
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Post by charlypm on Feb 9, 2017 6:24:27 GMT
I'm trying to remember what I did on my clutch hydraulics. I think a Spitfire master cylinder is the same and I had to change the pushrod, I think.
I'll look at it and report back.
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Post by hydrolastic on Apr 26, 2017 6:32:41 GMT
Hello guys, Got the master and slave back from Apple Hydraulics applehydraulics.com They were sleeved and rebuilt put them in over the weekend. It started right up and the clutch is smooth and easy. Next item is to replace the left side motor mount as the engine is sagging so much i can't get the air filter on. But the real problem now is the shift cable leak. Car sat for a month and a good half qt of oil leaked out. |
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Simple - honest! Even I can do it.....
