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Post by peppib on Oct 30, 2016 8:38:24 GMT
Yes you did Chris - you advised that error codes can have several meanings which then led me away from tracing wires to check the control unit - which was the cause. Like anyone who runs old cars, I just happened to have a spare unit to hand!
Enjoy the upright work fitting an engine, rather than crawling about in rust
Seeing those panels, there MUST be a receipt for them somewhere and I have missed it. When Her ladyship is in a good mood I will get her to recover a brief case containing all the receipts, which lurks under a bad so out of my reach
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Post by Penguin45 on Oct 31, 2016 19:41:03 GMT
Oh, right. Glad to be of help. So, a couple of hours on Mo this afternoon. First order of business was to get the remains of the original sill off the usable section of centre membrane. Lots of spot welds to drill out, followed by the chisel. Rear jacking point anybody? Inner panel by the displacer. It all looks a bit better just with the grot cut away! 'Oyls as we say opp 'ere in't north. That's a pretty substantial repair panel which has been let in by the displacer. It's needing some serious re-working. Bottom flange flatted back. Think I might replace it as there are several rotten areas in amongst the good stuff. Haven't bothered at the back, as the bottom 2 or 3 inches are going to have to be cut away whatever I do. Lovely stuff. Chris.
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UMO 406G
Nov 1, 2016 7:50:30 GMT
via mobile
Post by landcrabman on Nov 1, 2016 7:50:30 GMT
Another fine job coming together chris
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Post by peppib on Nov 1, 2016 8:02:21 GMT
Still can't believe she was tested and road legal. That panel by the displacer may be one welded in by a friend some years ago - there should have been a similar repair on the nearside
She will be brilliant once you have finished. Thank you
Dave
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Post by Penguin45 on Nov 1, 2016 19:10:45 GMT
A sort of refurbished jacking point for the rear. Being missing gives better access to the drop down panel by the displacer. Chopped out. And replaced. Want to get the bottom flange sorted, then I can tie the panels together for maximum strength. Chris.
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Post by Penguin45 on Nov 1, 2016 20:34:15 GMT
Or I could just fail to resist the temptation of fitting the rear jacking point. Nice and solid. Chris.
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Post by dave1800 on Nov 2, 2016 0:06:01 GMT
Does anyone actually ever use those jacking points?
David
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Post by peppib on Nov 2, 2016 8:00:33 GMT
This gets more horrifying by the day. Looking really solid now though
David - last time I used a jacking point was back in the 60's and the car just buckled. I always carry a hydraulic jack in the car - Mo has a one and a half ton trolley jack in her boot, and Merc a 2 ton bottle jack from 1956
Dave
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Post by Penguin45 on Nov 2, 2016 10:29:38 GMT
Scissor jack and a block of wood in mine. However, the jacking point is meant to be there, so it jolly well wil be! Chris.
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UMO 406G
Nov 2, 2016 12:55:25 GMT
via mobile
Post by landcrabman on Nov 2, 2016 12:55:25 GMT
Scissor jack and a block of wood in mine. However, the jacking point is meant to be there, so it jolly well wil be! Chris. remember jacking my dads 1800 up at the drivers side and he opened the door onto the jack and put a big dent in the door with the jack,be warned.
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UMO 406G
Nov 2, 2016 14:25:17 GMT
via mobile
Post by peppib on Nov 2, 2016 14:25:17 GMT
Scissor jack and a block of wood in mine. However, the jacking point is meant to be there, so it jolly well wil be! Chris. That reminds me - I bought a scissor jack last year so IF I can find where I put it, it will be lighter to carry than the trolley jack. All I have to do then is find somewhere to store that when it is removed from the car
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Post by Penguin45 on Nov 2, 2016 19:00:00 GMT
Bottom flange cut away and remains drilled off. Pretty rotten, so correct call. Several small holes in the floor appeared, so they've been addressed. Nasty bit of rot by the displacer housing dealt with, double skinned and tied to the drop down panel. And new flange for the sill bottom to weld to. Folder is only 24", so I need three of these altogether. Holes for the upside down plug welds to be drilled. Chris.
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Post by Penguin45 on Nov 3, 2016 19:37:45 GMT
Bottom flange plug welded home. 50 upside down plug welds. Only 2 went completely wrong and had to be drilled out and re-done. Not happy with the flash rust appearing - it actually wipes off with a bare finger, but it'll have to be treated properly. So - front end of the centre membrane is the last major stuctural work to be done. Pretty horrible. Another non-existent jacking point... Grot cut out and refurbished jacking point attached at the top. Rear repair panel going in. Looks better. Run out of gas. That's it until tomorrow then. Get that panel fully welded, tidied up and the flange lined up properly. Chris.
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UMO 406G
Nov 3, 2016 20:22:16 GMT
via mobile
Post by landcrabman on Nov 3, 2016 20:22:16 GMT
Bottom flange plug welded home. 50 upside down plug welds. Only 2 went completely wrong and had to be drilled out and re-done. Not happy with the flash rust appearing - it actually wipes off with a bare finger, but it'll have to be treated properly. So - front end of the centre membrane is the last major stuctural work to be done. Pretty horrible. Another non-existent jacking point... Grot cut out and refurbished jacking point attached at the top. Rear repair panel going in. Looks better. Run out of gas. That's it until tomorrow then. Get that panel fully welded, tidied up and the flange lined up properly. Chris. Looking good chris if you ever get fed up of welding you could become a surgeon
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Post by Penguin45 on Nov 3, 2016 23:47:39 GMT
Cheers, Wayne. After a while, it "clicks" and you know how it should look and how you should do it. The jacking points were two of your old ones - there was rather more to work with! Ultimate re-cycling!
That said, that weld on the left will have to be flatted back, cut away and re-done. The gas was sputtering at that point and the weld is flat and lacks penetration. I think we've decided that the centre panel is pretty critical to the overall strength of the car, so I want it to be right.
Chris.
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