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Post by Penguin45 on Nov 27, 2023 22:54:01 GMT
I think MINIMINE are the people you want. Pretty sure they made me a new engine number plate and a quick check shows they do chassis tags as well. Chris.
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Post by Penguin45 on Nov 27, 2023 19:50:48 GMT
*Looks in cupboard in order to find hobby horse. Ah yes, here it is.* There is basically nothing wrong with the standard points system that quality components will not maintain. The only guaranteed quality component supplier I know of is the DISTRIBUTOR DOCTOR, who is very highly regarded. I have had three of the little red Hall Effect sensors some years ago and every single one failed. I suspect that the heat got them, despite the heat sink grease liberally applied. I really don't like them, principally because you have to carry a spare distributor in case of failure (or a spare unit). There are quality options out there - the 123 distributor is a nice piece of kit, Lumenition, both optical and magnetic, work well and have a sound reputation. Downside is expense. Or you can be a complete loony like me and use your points to drive a nice 1970's electronic ignition unit. It's switchable between electronic and standard if the electronics give up. I'll get home. The modern iteration is by Gammatronix at around £35. I've got a positive earth one going spare which is available after I did the alternator conversion. Anyway, I'm sure David will be able to give you some rather more reasoned and rational ideas. My dealings with ignition have cause much hilarity over the years, so I will make no apologies for my rather biased stance. Chris.
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Post by Penguin45 on Nov 26, 2023 11:56:34 GMT
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Post by Penguin45 on Nov 17, 2023 8:01:32 GMT
I saw the work in progress a couple of summers back and there was some fantastic stuff taking place.
C.
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Post by Penguin45 on Nov 16, 2023 7:31:55 GMT
PC will be featuring Andy Bellfield's VR6-engined 'Crab. Available from November 22nd.
Chris.
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Post by Penguin45 on Nov 8, 2023 18:37:35 GMT
Hello Steven, welcome aboard. Snoopy and I did this a few years back. The MG Midget unit will fit directly, with the exception of the electrical connectors. They had to be trimmed back and the wiring soldered to the stumps, as the little cowl could not be refitted with the amp tags in place. In fact, read about it HERE - page 18. Midget steering lock unit is HERE. Well worth investigating other suppliers, as it's not particularly cheap. Chris.
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Post by Penguin45 on Nov 4, 2023 18:12:22 GMT
The effects knock on down the line. You couldn't get a bulkhead on it's own as a spare part, only the front end assembly - bulkhead, inner wings and front cross member. There were 5 (yes, five!) listed for the cars.
Chris.
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Post by Penguin45 on Nov 1, 2023 18:04:11 GMT
24G 3753 as far as I can work out. No sign of one though. Ask Tony to contact Paddy in NI. He'll almost certainly have one squirrelled away somewhere.
Chris.
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Post by Penguin45 on Oct 23, 2023 21:49:28 GMT
Many, many years ago, I did the head gasket on my Princess 2200. I had a mate to help and I don't think we had any special tools whatsoever. It must be possible then.
C.
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Post by Penguin45 on Oct 22, 2023 17:53:39 GMT
I've got to say, Jeff, that the G valve is such an incredibly simple device that, unless it really has fully furred up, I don't see how it can fail!
I'll try and get you a kit away in the post tomorrow so you can dismantle it with confidence.
Chris.
PS - PM me your address. Can't find it.
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Post by Penguin45 on Oct 20, 2023 8:40:07 GMT
I do have some G valve kits. I'm down in that there London Town at the moment, so I'll drop you a message when we get back on Monday.
Chris.
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Post by Penguin45 on Oct 17, 2023 17:23:16 GMT
Agreed. I would assume that the head has warped slightly if the gasket has failed so quickly. It can be skimmed flat for usually quite a reasonable price.
Chris.
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Post by Penguin45 on Oct 17, 2023 7:57:00 GMT
Hello Olof,
Is there a problem with your steering rack, or do you not have one? The usual problem with the manual rack is the end bush becomes worn. This can be replaced (I have them). Tony Wood is the Landcrab Owners Club International spares guru and will probably have a complete rack. You can contact him on spareathought@landcrab.net . He is always a good first contact point.
Converting the car to power steering would require you to find the dynamo and pump unit and the connection hoses, as well as changing the steering column and coupling. Complicated and to little advantage in my personal opinion.
Chris.
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Post by Penguin45 on Oct 16, 2023 11:02:13 GMT
Looks like I've cracked the pivot rubber moulding and got some consistency. Window Pivot Rubber by Penguin 45, on Flickr Just got to rattle up some stock now. C.
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Post by Penguin45 on Oct 15, 2023 12:47:17 GMT
The lathe has required some remedial work. The level of chatter and vibration had risen to become unacceptable. Deep cuts and parting off became impossible and the surface finish had become poor. The weak spot of any lathe is the compound (The top sliding bit with the tool on). On this one, it is fitted and controlled by a gib strip, itself held by three grub screws. Now the compound is over twice the length of the block on which it mounts (cross-slide), so the gib is secured by only two of the three screws most of the time. There was lateral play and tightening the screws simply made the compound too tight to move comfortably. Additionally, there was a considerable amount of backlash on the handle. Backlash is controlled by a pair of nuts on the end of the shaft and is incredibly fiddly to try and set up. Making up a block to allow the flange on the shaft to have something solid to ride against when being wound out would solve the lash problems. Mini Lathe - Gibbs by Penguin 45, on Flickr A recess was milled into the rear of that plate and with a .2 mm shim reduced the lash at the handle down to .001". I'll take that. Mini Lathe - Gibbs by Penguin 45, on Flickr The gib on the compound turned out to be bent, so a universal adjuster was deployed to straighten it. After the caveman bit, I observed that the grub screws didn't locate into the indents on the gib. They do now, as do the ones for the extra three grub screws fitted. Mini Lathe - Gibbs by Penguin 45, on Flickr There was a similar situation with the cross-slide. The extra length allowed me to up the number of grub screws to seven. Re-shimming the handle also reduced the backlash. I went to re-fit the the cross-slide, plopped it onto the carriage and there was a clonk and the carriage moved. Poking about showed that the front of the carriage could be lifted significantly. Mini Lathe - Gibbs by Penguin 45, on Flickr The carriage location is controlled by a metal strip. It's fitted as above. That's no even engineering, it's just cheap and nasty. And completely unreliable. Mini Lathe - Gibbs by Penguin 45, on Flickr It needs to look like that if it's going to work. Mini Lathe - Gibbs by Penguin 45, on Flickr Step cut with the mill, followed by an hour or so of filing and stoning to get an exact fit. Mini Lathe - Gibbs by Penguin 45, on Flickr It fits under there. Nice. So, everything cleaned and lubricated then re-assembled. Mini Lathe - Gibbs by Penguin 45, on Flickr Spent some time setting up the gib strips and now everything moves smoothly with light resistance. Mini Lathe - Gibbs by Penguin 45, on Flickr Final action was a few test cuts. The surface finish has visibly improved, so I'm pretty pleased with that. C.
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