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Post by Penguin45 on Mar 19, 2015 21:00:20 GMT
Got to use them sometimes - originals may not be available or there may be budgetary considerations. I bought a pair of these chaps from Auto Elctrical Supplies, for a very reasonable price and they certainly look the business.  However, the lamps (from the same source) do not fit the holders.   As you can see, the corner is restricted and the pip of the lamp doesn't go through.  Not really a big problem when you get down to it - five minutes with a miniature file opened things out enough to let the lamp fit. Annoying though. I have advised the supplier of the problem, as no doubt they'll have loads of these on the shelf, but to date I've had no reply. Caveat Emptor. Chris. |
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Post by tony on Mar 21, 2015 7:41:30 GMT
Thanks, Chris.
But they DON'T delivery any item to my country. I have written them a letter.
Regards.
Tony
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Post by Penguin45 on Mar 22, 2015 13:30:17 GMT
That seems rather strange in this day and age, Tony. The world is a so much smaller place these days with the internet.
Chris.
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Post by tony on Mar 24, 2015 0:33:37 GMT
I just got a reply from Matt telling me they can delivery any item to my country, which is a good thing.
Regards
Tony
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Post by Penguin45 on Jul 11, 2015 17:28:43 GMT
And another one...   On the right, the insulated connector from the dizzy on the Austin. As you can see, the insulation is falling apart. On the left a shiny replacement bought from a Well Known Mini Spares supplier at Gaydon last weekend. The plastic block is too wide to fit the slot on the side of the distributor and had to be filled down. Then the hole in the tag on the end of the wire was found to be too small to allow the insulator to push through. Again, opened out with a file. I know it was only a £3 part, but really..... Chris. |
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Post by Penguin45 on Aug 19, 2015 22:57:59 GMT
And another one.......... Will have to hoik the engine out of Eugenie shortly, to sort the clutch. There is also an issue with the thrust bearings, so the engine will have to come off the gearbox. Therefore, I need a conversion gasket set. ANG supposedly sell one:  Usual thing with eBay "representative picture". Having got it, it's for the MGB/anything inline with a "B" engine, not for our transverse engine. Contacted the seller when I received it and got the following reply:  So, he either doesn't know, or doesn't care. Be warned! I'm not all that bothered, I'll pass the set on to Chris the Painter round the corner, as he has a particularly lovely MGB roadster which he is planning some work on come autumn. Chris. |
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 20, 2015 1:03:27 GMT
Tony C's website has the templates for the gaskets in the members sction should you feel the need to create your own. What's the issue with the thrust bearings are they allowing the crank to move and creating difficulty with disengaging the clutch? I recall the first time I rebuilt a crab engine that the w's manual was particularly unhelpful at least for me. that was before the interent and Youtube etc of course. David And another one.......... There is also an issue with the thrust bearings, so the engine will have to come off the gearbox. |
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 20, 2015 6:43:45 GMT
I'm sure you don't need this but others may find it useful. Crankshaft thrust washersDavid What's the issue with the thrust bearings are they allowing the crank to move and creating difficulty with disengaging the clutch? I recall the first time I rebuilt a crab engine that the w's manual was particularly unhelpful at least for me. that was before the interent and Youtube etc of course. David And another one.......... There is also an issue with the thrust bearings, so the engine will have to come off the gearbox. |
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Post by indianajones on Aug 20, 2015 9:25:12 GMT
Thanks for the heads up Chris, I have seen those in the past on Ebay. Will need to look elsewhere when I need one.
-Andrew
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Post by Penguin45 on Aug 20, 2015 10:50:47 GMT
Engine revs drop markedly when foot is applied to clutch. I will detail my findings soon.
Chris.
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Post by indianajones on Aug 20, 2015 11:20:04 GMT
Engine revs drop markedly when foot is applied to clutch. I will detail my findings soon. Chris. My car does the same thing, so I'll be following this. -Andrew |
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Post by threelitre on Aug 20, 2015 21:28:38 GMT
Engine revs drop markedly when foot is applied to clutch. I will detail my findings soon. Chris. My father's car does this since I can think... Even when new he learned never to press the clutch while trying to start the engine, as it would turn much easier when the clutch was released. You may expect it to improve, but I doubt you'll get rid of this completly. Regards, Alexander |
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 21, 2015 0:20:58 GMT
Have you checked for movement in the crankshaft? If you move it ackwards by tapping the pulley and then get someone to operate the clutch you can feel (or measure) the crank move forwards again if there's a problem. When The Wolseley 18/85 that I purchased with known worn thrust washers the main symptom was that the clutch engaged very close to the floor. I don't recall it slowing the engine any more than on other crabs. I recall that the general advice for starting BMC engines was NOT to put your foot on the clutch as the drag would impede starting. Something to do with carbon thrust bearings commonly used at the time perhaps? Regards David Engine revs drop markedly when foot is applied to clutch. I will detail my findings soon. Chris. |
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 21, 2015 13:26:25 GMT
Some more thoughts. Over the years there were various lengths of clutch m/s push rod, spacers / no spacers on the firewall for the m/s mounting and slave cylinder push rod lengths as well as different heights of clutch cover. Tony C published an article he wrote giving the details in one of his newsletters available to members under a heading of readers contributions. I imagine that if there is too much throw on the clutch because of a mismatch then this could account for the extra load on the engine. I believe that the possibility of a mismatch of components is quite real because of all of the lack of clarity in the documentation. regards David Have you checked for movement in the crankshaft? If you move it ackwards by tapping the pulley and then get someone to operate the clutch you can feel (or measure) the crank move forwards again if there's a problem. When The Wolseley 18/85 that I purchased with known worn thrust washers the main symptom was that the clutch engaged very close to the floor. I don't recall it slowing the engine any more than on other crabs. I recall that the general advice for starting BMC engines was NOT to put your foot on the clutch as the drag would impede starting. Something to do with carbon thrust bearings commonly used at the time perhaps? Regards David Engine revs drop markedly when foot is applied to clutch. I will detail my findings soon. Chris. |
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Post by Penguin45 on Aug 21, 2015 16:56:08 GMT
Given that I have no choice but to remove the engine anyway, I will investigate fully when I have it on the floor and have total access.
Chris.
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