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Post by tommydp on Jul 6, 2015 21:19:06 GMT
Thanks guys! Yeah, I think I've had my share but not giving up! The cylinder head is the Burgess head, so think that can be ruled out. It was obvious that oil had found its way to the inlet mnifold, so that would have to be through the crankcase ventilation system. Weird in deed.
I've heard from distributordoctor too. Really quick and super service. There was an issue with over advancing. The primary advance spring had stretched, so that's why I had 16 degrees at idle when static timed to 9 degrees. Otherwise it ws fine, there was no dwell issue. What caused the dwell meter and tachometer to drop randomly then, I don't know (tried different instruments).
Well, some day:-) I'm happy I have the white one. I'll use the standard cam. At least the lobes had no obvious wear.
Regards, Tommy
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Post by Penguin45 on Jul 6, 2015 22:22:33 GMT
And that has to be why it is worth having two 'Crabs. Chris.
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Post by dave1800 on Jul 7, 2015 1:47:23 GMT
Just a thought, probably not relevant, but I wonder if you could have experienced oil dilution from fuel leaking into the sump from a pinhole in the fuel pump diaphragm - assuming it is mechanical?
Regards
David
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Post by tommydp on Jul 7, 2015 7:59:04 GMT
In deed, Chris! A good thing to have two:-)
Dave,I don't think any petrol has come into the oil. The oil seemed fine all the time, no smell of petrol from it and I think the petrol pump can be ruled out.
Tommy.
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Post by dave1800 on Jul 7, 2015 10:35:04 GMT
It was a (very) long shot; baffled by what could have gone so wrong David Dave,I don't think any petrol has come into the oil. The oil seemed fine all the time, no smell of petrol from it and I think the petrol pump can be ruled out. Tommy.
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Post by tommydp on Mar 24, 2016 18:08:59 GMT
It takes a lot of time, but I'm in the process of fitting the overhauled engine to the blue car, once again. I hope it will be ok this time, I've really lost all motivation so it takes a lot of time to put it together. Anyway, the engine is almost ready to be fitted now, I just want to fix up the engine bay a bit while it's out. I'm using the Princess box and rod gear mechanism this time. I've now successfully made a slot on the differential shafts, so they can be locked with the Princess box internal circlip. I jut measured up the distance on the Princess part and made slots by a hand file. Took some patience... I hope it will work, at least the drive shafts are able to slide in and out. Tommy
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Post by Penguin45 on Mar 24, 2016 20:02:42 GMT
Any particular reason for popping the rings on? I assume that this is the same as the ones we use on the cv joint end of the shaft.
Chris.
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Post by tommydp on Mar 24, 2016 20:57:47 GMT
The rings are mounted inside the differential, as on modern cars. So the shaft is pushed onto the ring. I'm not getting into the differential to remove the rings..
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Post by tommydp on May 17, 2016 8:10:36 GMT
Finally, it's alive again:-) Very promising so far. Tommy
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Post by Penguin45 on May 17, 2016 8:23:12 GMT
Well done, Tommy. Can't hear the tappets. Chris.
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Post by indianajones on May 17, 2016 20:44:42 GMT
Nice stuff Tommy!
-Andrew
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Post by tommydp on May 28, 2016 5:53:56 GMT
I've done about 700 kms on the new engine so far. I'm quite pleased with it. The most amazing thing is that it does't leak oil at all:-) Happy with that. Yes, it has rod change from a Princess now... I wonder how much it has to be driven to be fully brooken in? I've followed the rebuilder's advice on breaking in. At least it doesn't look like it uses oil, though I know some is to be expected during breaking in. I've had a look down the plug holes and until recently I could see oil there. It seems to have settled now. I've not seen any smoke after going down hill, apart from after a long, steep one in third gear. So, hope it works this time:-) I just changed the oil and filter. I can now get the Gulf Classic 20W50 oil, with additional, zink locally. So I went for that. A strange thing though. I filled exactly 5.1 litres, plus the filter, which is correct. However on the dipstick, the level is well above max. Any experience with this. Is it due to having a mk 2 engine on a Princess box? The engine has its correct dipstick, but the dipstick tube is different on an 1800 vs a Princess. The 1800 one is screwed into the block, while the Princess one is just pushed into the block. Their dipsticks are the same length as far as I can see. Tommy
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Post by dave1800 on May 28, 2016 8:27:20 GMT
Hi Tommy
Good to hear all is well. Do you know what the oil capacity is for the Princes 1800 - is it the same as the Crab? The Mk111 cars with the rod change had the same capacity as the Mk11 and I am not aware of any other changes other than the gearing but not impossible.
When you added the oil did you take into account that there is always some that doesn't drain but gets trapped in the transfer gear area. I would double check the dip sticks and their markings to ensure they are identical and sit in the block at exactly the same level - I'm sure you've done this several times already.
However there were problems as you know with early Mk1 car engines blowing up after being driven hard on the motorways because of a wrong dipstick marking leading to the con rods hitting the excess oil and frothing it. I think some others here may have Mk111 rod change boxes but not sure if from a Princess so hopefully you can get a more enlightened response. In the meantime I would advise keepig the engine revs down until it is resolved.
Regards
David
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Post by Penguin45 on May 28, 2016 9:56:10 GMT
Princess WM says 10¼ pints for "re-fill with filter change". Filter holds 1 pint.
Chris.
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Post by dave1800 on May 29, 2016 1:45:32 GMT
Mk11 / Mk111 Crabs also 10.25 pints including filter, so apparently not a capacity change. Looks like some serious measurements needed Another Tommy intellectual challenge for us! regards David Princess WM says 10¼ pints for "re-fill with filter change". Filter holds 1 pint. Chris.
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