Hi Chris, Wow anyone working on these cars has to have a lot of will power. Thank goodness I come from the DryLand Down Under.
One thing with rust - its always worse than you'd imagined. But in the vain hope that it isn't; Did I see at this site a recommendation/summary of Rust prevention/treatment chemicals?
My understanding is that there's:
(a) rust remover chemicals (mainly mild acids that need to be neutralised or washed off) so you need good access for application and drying and then you need to protect. (b) rust converters that react with the rust and a polymer bond (if you don't have good access to remove flaky rust the coating only converts and protects to surface of the scale.) These coatings can also act as primers. (c) Cold Galv paint (Zinc rich - but only protects bare metal - the rust needs to be removed first) (d) Epoxy paints - high density polymer coatings (e) Waxy polymer solvent emulsions (low viscosity to carry polymer into crevices but can be painted over) POR, Penitrol (f) Waxoyl, Fishoil top treatments of oily water repellants (g) Thick bitumen, silicone undercoats (noise reduction and stone chip resistant - but can trap water) Did I cover it?
So what's other people experiences?
The main area I'm looking at is behind the master cylinder. Looks like this has leaked - dissolved the paint and got a rust patch on the surface. Its a pain to get at cause I don't want to remove the master cylinder and lines - just yet. Regards Paddy
There's a bit about prevention after repair HERE. I wrote that assuming that rust had been eradicated and new metal let in.
As far as treating rusty metal is concerned, a vigorous wire brushing followed by treatment with a rust convertor works for me. Rust convertors are generally phosphoric acid in a handleable form - you can use the stuff neat if you wish, BUT protect yourself! Nasty stuff.