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Post by Penguin45 on Oct 15, 2013 23:12:03 GMT
Good stuff from Nick.
Electrics will dry out given time - if you take it on, drain the engine fluids immediately and see what comes out the bottom. Any cheap oil can replace it for a week or two, then drain it again. Maybe see if it will turn over to get the fresh oil through the galleries and perhaps not fire it up.
Come to that, everything except the engine would dry out over time. The actual hydraulics of the brake system may be OK as it is a virtually sealed system, but I assume that you intend to strip and re-seal it all anyway?
Chris.
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Post by dave1800 on Oct 16, 2013 1:47:51 GMT
Nick Thank for your observations they are very helpful. The climate here can destroy car interiors very rapidly which is why most owners use 3M or equivalent UV film as tinted screens don't appear to be an option on locally produced Toyotas/Hondas etc. The day time temperature in some months can reach 45C with interiors reaching over 60C. Humidity is also very high especially around Bangkok but there is no salt to worry about. It looks as though the rear window seal is a locally produced replacement which they cut to length instead of being a proprietary part. I'm not sure whether the springs in the rear seat back are rusty through humidity, damp or flood but the missing seat back adds to the thought of water. Unfortunately I don't have the Commission number but have checked with Tony Hobbs whose car has a chassis number 300 higher than this one and his car has the door trim of MK1 cars with the chrome handles. Looking at the dashboard the plate quoting a contract number suggests to me the car may originally have belonged to the UK Government as possibly an Embassy car, but this is just speculation. I have now blown up the picture of the corrosion on the dashboard and see that the metalwork above the speedo is not corroded and I am not sure what I am actually seeing any more, is it part of the padded cover that has been levered off? I wish I had looked more closely. The photos I posted I accentuated the rust colour to make it stand out but on reflection it probably gives a distorted view. I was going to ask the owner to get the engine running and then make another trip, but on reflection it may be better to take a plug spanner with me and see if the engine turns over. I'm swinging from believing it has been flooded to trying to convince myself it hasn't! I am prepared and expecting to replace the braking and clutch systems as well as sorting out the bodywork and 100% rewiring but if it extends to all the electrics, starter, wiper motor and the engine and gearbox I need to think very hard. If you have any more thoughts they would be very welcome regards David David, Been looking at your photos again. My guess is that the original seats may have been recovered as they look about right in terms of size and shape (where would the owner get a replacement from?) There should be a board between the rear seat backrest and the boot bulkhead. This is missing and I can see that the springs in the backrest are very rusty, supporting your view of water having been in there. The rear window rubber being shot would be enough to rot a lot of the soft materials and start problems in the seat pan and boot floor - I have evidence of repairs in this area in my own car and had to replace a disintegrated parcel shelf that had turned to dust following water damage (my window rubbers are very new). Would the climate in your part of the world have done enough damage over the years to turn the whole interior to scrap? The lower dash panel rust is certainly odd. I would expect it to have been padded. If the car had been up to this level in water it might explain a lot but I don't want to be a doom monger - there aren't many 1800s in Thailand. Door handles: I've got the body parts listing and it shows both types of interior treatment. It uses commission numbers for the change point which for an Austin is A17 S 64110A though a few were fitted from 64041. I have a few Mk1 brochures and an Autocar from Sept 1966 all showing the older type of handle. I don't have first hand experience of flooding apart from talking to off-roaders who say that mud and water wrecks the insides of brakes in no time at all unless they are stripped and cleaned very frequently. Very best wishes in your decision making over this one Nick |
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Post by dave1800 on Oct 16, 2013 2:01:02 GMT
Thanks Chris I've set out my thoughts in my reply to Nick. Now what would you do with a modern car and all its electronics and connectors if it were flooded? A much easier decision for me! Regards David Good stuff from Nick. Electrics will dry out given time - if you take it on, drain the engine fluids immediately and see what comes out the bottom. Any cheap oil can replace it for a week or two, then drain it again. Maybe see if it will turn over to get the fresh oil through the galleries and perhaps not fire it up. Come to that, everything except the engine would dry out over time. The actual hydraulics of the brake system may be OK as it is a virtually sealed system, but I assume that you intend to strip and re-seal it all anyway? Chris. |
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