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Post by kelsham on Feb 8, 2013 8:52:41 GMT
Indy, I personally would think twice about using Locktite when rebuilding the engine.
Locktite is a good product in some situations.
However I followed the advice about assembly in one of the workshop manuals. It advised assembling the parts and then leaving them to settle. I left them overnight, I then found the nuts/bolts could be retightened easily as the gaskets squashed down.
This was particularly noticeable in the case of the gearbox to engine casings. If you have good spring washers the nuts will not move.
Regards Kels.
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Post by dave1800 on Feb 8, 2013 12:39:52 GMT
Hi Kels I agree with you about not using Loctite or similar products except in special situations. However, the first motion shaft nut for me was an exception. After having it come loose it required a complete engine rebuild and more hours than I wish to remember clearing oilways and the gearbox /final drive. The only other place I used it was on the front hub nut - more wishful thinking than real expectation. As you know both of these nuts are tightened to 150ft lbs and after using Loctite I didn't have a problem. Whether it helped or not I could not categorically confirm, but it certainly didn't impede dismantling so I would say use it. Where you are bolting up against a gasket it would generally be inappropriate to use Loctite and your advice to leave it to settle and then retighten is really handy. Regards David Indy, I personally would think twice about using Locktite when rebuilding the engine. Locktite is a good product in some situations. However I followed the advice about assembly in one of the workshop manuals. It advised assembling the parts and then leaving them to settle. I left them overnight, I then found the nuts/bolts could be retightened easily as the gaskets squashed down. This was particularly noticeable in the case of the gearbox to engine casings. If you have good spring washers the nuts will not move. Regards Kels. |
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Post by indianajones on Aug 11, 2013 9:38:28 GMT
Progress was made today   -Andrew |
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 11, 2013 13:13:09 GMT
Well done! Before you go any further it may be worth letting forum members know what you are going to do with the engine, ie how much you will dismantle yourself. I am sure there is a lot of knowledge here to help you make sure it all goes smoothly. How I wish I had something more than a w/s manual the first time! Regards David Progress was made today -Andrew |
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Post by indianajones on Aug 11, 2013 20:47:49 GMT
Cheers David,
Felt good to get them a part at last.
Well I noticed one of the teeth on the gearbox is broken (you can kinda see in that photo, but will upload another one later), so that'll need fixing and I'll need someone to inspect it to check the syncros etc
But first I'm going to start with the engine, plans include:
-Getting the crank inspected/machined
-Getting the cylinder bores inspected/resleeved
-Replacing the pistons (and rings etc)
-Getting the head inspected/machined (valves checked and replaced as needed)
-Getting the cam inspected/machined
And some other stuff I've no doubt missed out.
I also need to find some head bolts, push rods and timing gear (and chain)
Hopefully these shouldn't be too hard to find. I imagine they're the same type used on the MGB
-Andrew
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 12, 2013 3:00:52 GMT
Hi Andrew As it is daylight here and most UK forum members will probably be fast asleep I will kick off with a few suggestions leaving plenty for others to add Note before further dismantling that the bearing caps and con rods should be labelled so that they go back in the same place. Find a really good engine reconditioner. In the UK there is an organisation known as the Federation of Engine Remanufacturers which should guarantee some degree of quality control - hopefully there is an equivalent in Oz. You need someone who has worked on these engines - see the University Motors youtube videos on the oil ways and what to check for. You will need to decide whether you wish to rebuild the engine yourself or let the reconditioner rebuild it. If the former make sure you can get the correct size bearing shells and pistons / rings. Be careful about the camshaft. Try and find NOS if possible there are a lot of horror stories out there. The camshafts are often in good condition so don't rush to change it unless essential. If it is pitted on the lobes it is on its way out. You will need new tappets (cam followers) note there are two different types matched to the correct length push rods. The camshaft is not the same as the MGB. The timing chain is the same as the MGB, but note Tommy's problems with cr*p timing chains. The timing gear may not need replacing, if it does the MGB gears may not have the key in the same place leading to wrong cam timing. The chain tensioner is common with the MGB. (Note later MGBs and Mk111 1800s had the single gears and timing chains) You would normally expect to be able to rebore the block and not have to fit sleeves. The reconditioner will be able to advise. A new oil pump is probably a good idea. regards David Cheers David, Felt good to get them a part at last. Well I noticed one of the teeth on the gearbox is broken (you can kinda see in that photo, but will upload another one later), so that'll need fixing and I'll need someone to inspect it to check the syncros etc But first I'm going to start with the engine, plans include: -Getting the crank inspected/machined -Getting the cylinder bores inspected/resleeved -Replacing the pistons (and rings etc) -Getting the head inspected/machined (valves checked and replaced as needed) -Getting the cam inspected/machined And some other stuff I've no doubt missed out. I also need to find some head bolts, push rods and timing gear (and chain) Hopefully these shouldn't be too hard to find. I imagine they're the same type used on the MGB -Andrew |
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Post by indianajones on Aug 12, 2013 3:40:11 GMT
Cheers for all that David. Should mention I'm not in Oz, in NZ  Well talk to local club members down here who might know who to use and who not to use. I will need to decide if I should do it myself or get a shop to do it. I'm leaning towards me doing it, otherwise I'll learn nothing from it, I'd like to treat it as a learning exercise as well as a rebuild. Well I have considered boring the block, of course I'd need bigger pistons etc, if they're the same cost I'll resleeve I think. -Andrew |
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 12, 2013 7:52:54 GMT
Sorry, I've been in contact with so many people in Australia the last week or so, a senior moment A good idea to do it yourself and learn; I'm sure there are quite a few here will talk you through it, just let us know what you are going to do. Regards David Cheers for all that David. Should mention I'm not in Oz, in NZ -Andrew |
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Post by Penguin45 on Aug 12, 2013 14:33:41 GMT
Always good to do what you can yourself. If you can present the machine shop with a bare block and stripped crank, it saves them time (and you money!).
Label everything. Take pictures, make diagrams and ask questions - it all makes sense when it come to re-assembly time.
I was somewhat nervous when I stripped the old engine from my 'Crab. I had done a few motorbike engines back in my youth, so found this huge lump of cast iron rather daunting. Nothing to it, really! Bit of patience and read the manual. Bit of advice from here and a good friend in Keighley saw the job done.
Chris.
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Post by indianajones on Mar 2, 2014 8:52:06 GMT
More progress (Becoming a father, full time work and part time study really eats into your spare time!): Pistons out and 3 main bearing caps off (ran out of time for the 2 end ones, dinner was ready!)    Also, does anyone know much about cylinder head numbers? i.e. can it tell you what car/engine it's from? (i.e. 1800, wedge, MGB) I believe it's from an 1800.  Cheers, Andrew |
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Post by Nick RS on Mar 2, 2014 11:37:53 GMT
Andrew,
Part numbers in my book are one digit out so not sure. However it looks like that circular set of numbers is a date stamp 28-5-1969 which if thats the case says it won't be from a Wedge.
Nick
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Post by dave1800 on Mar 2, 2014 13:34:57 GMT
In the Australian parts list on the Austineighteenhundred website it is shown as a MK11 Austin 1800 (Landcrab) cylinder head. I think the "A" may indicate the larger valves as fitted to MK11/111 Landcrabs. EDIT: I've now found reference to this casting number in Peter Burgess' book on the MGB. Burgess cylinder head MGB so I'm a bit confused. I thought the MGB had a slightly higher compression ratio than the 1800 of the same period? What is your engine number? Is it an Australian series with a "Y" in it? regards David Andrew, Part numbers in my book are one digit out so not sure. However it looks like that circular set of numbers is a date stamp 28-5-1969 which if thats the case says it won't be from a Wedge. Nick |
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Post by indianajones on Mar 4, 2014 7:26:09 GMT
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Post by dave1800 on Mar 4, 2014 7:47:39 GMT
On the austineighteenhundred website you must log in and then follow links to members, service, parts lists, part 1 engine (pdf). Did you use my link to the Burgess book extract, it is still working for me. I think Nick has the best info on engine numbers but as it is 18H prefix it is from a post 1970 transverse engined car and I believe not from Australia. The A may indicate automatic. Regards David |
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Post by indianajones on Mar 4, 2014 8:10:25 GMT
I thought the autos have a different block bottom compared to the manual to mate to the gearbox?
Andrew
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