|
Post by dave1800 on Jan 25, 2012 1:54:41 GMT
Tommy I'm not sure from what you are saying if there is more than one suspect valve guide ie the inlet that makes a noise and the exhaust valve with build up. I think the first thing is to accurately check the valves and guides for wear, as Chris says if only one guide is worn then this is a cheap solution. (You may need the engine rebuilder to measure the guides and stems if you don't have the appropriate tools.) However, if the checks indicate the guides and valves are past their best it may be worth getting a quote on a fitting a complete new set of guides and perhaps new valves to match. If you don't want to replace all the valves I suggest you check the ones you save match the new valve guides - I have seen problems with new guides incorrectly reamed. You may consider using bronze guides if available there as used by Peter Burgess and others. Regards David If it is just the one worn valve guide, Tommy, and the head is otherwise fine, why not replace it? A guide is cheap enough, changing the valve itself will not be expensive, then it is just a case of lapping it in to restore the sealing surface. New parts will give you confidence that the job is "right". Chris.
|
|
|
Post by tommydp on Jan 25, 2012 8:20:32 GMT
Thanks guys! I have decided to send the cylinder head to Burgess for a complete overhaul. I guess the valve noises, carbon build up and oil burning is due to the head. If not, a professionally rebuilt head is no drawback as I'm planning to have this car the rest of my life:-) The total cost of postage and rebuild by Burgess is very low in my opinion (remember everything is expensive here...), so off the head goes across the North Sea:-)
In the meantime, I'll put in the better head I found as it seems I have to put the Crab into winter service too. My modern Peugeot seems to fall apart by the day, so I need reliable and comfy transport.
Any advice on the cylinder head studs? I seem to remember reading they should only be fastened firmly by hand, before putting the head on and torqueing the nuts. Or should the studs be tightened to some torque, using an additional locking nut, prior to fitting the head?
I'll check the valve lift before putting the head on:-)
Regards, Tommy:-)
|
|
|
Post by indianajones on Jan 25, 2012 8:27:06 GMT
Awesome Tommy, like the part about keeping her for life If that's the case a new/redone head is money well spent. -Andrew
|
|
|
Post by dave1800 on Jan 25, 2012 9:29:48 GMT
Hi Tommy Being six hours ahead of Europe, I seem to be the one to answer your late night postings first. A good decision on the head I believe. As far as the studs go, ideally you should use new ones each time, but I don't think many do. What comes to mind is to ensure that the studs are not fully tightened in the block as they could cause a crack as they expand, so half a turn off. The threads should be absolutely clean and lightly oiled. Any with damaged threads should be discarded as they could affect the torque settings. I always hand tightened them in the sequence shown in the manual and then went round in the same sequence increasing the torque by 10-15lbs each time. I expect others have advice too regards David In the meantime, I'll put in the better head I found as it seems I have to put the Crab into winter service too. My modern Peugeot seems to fall apart by the day, so I need reliable and comfy transport. Any advice on the cylinder head studs? I seem to remember reading they should only be fastened firmly by hand, before putting the head on and torqueing the nuts. Or should the studs be tightened to some torque, using an additional locking nut, prior to fitting the head? I'll check the valve lift before putting the head on:-) Regards, Tommy:-)
|
|
|
Post by tommydp on Jan 31, 2012 21:08:37 GMT
Hi all! This evening I installed yet another cylinder head, the one I had in my "spares department" which seemed better when it came to valves and guides. I've lapped the valves and fitted new o- ring seals. Before fitting I checked the movement of the pushrods and they lifted exactly the same amount, roughly 7 millimetres.
It all went well, and I turned the engine until the oil light went out before I attached the coil lead and started. 20W50 oil and minus 15 celsius is no good combination when the car has been standing for months:-)
Well, it looks, sounds and smells promising! The engine note is very different and now it sounds like the Marina. There are no abnormal valve noises and the smell of the exhaust is different, cleaner. After a carb tune it idled beautifully when hot with only a light, normal valve noise. The sound of the engine when revving is transformed. It sounds far healthier, there seems to be more suction through the carb, as on the Marina.
Another difference is it now started immediately hot, without touching the accelerator, and ran evenly right away.
Well, I'm not saying it is solved, but things are looking better than in a long time:-)
I'll try it on the road tomorrow! I'll have to fit ice chains to the wheels to get it down to the main road and I wasn't really up for that now:-) Coffee, TV and the fireplace were more tempting:-)
Regards, Tommy:-)
|
|
|
Post by indianajones on Jan 31, 2012 21:29:21 GMT
Awesome news Tommy.
What do you mean when you guys say 'lap the valves' also what are O ring seals?
-Andrew
|
|
|
Post by Penguin45 on Feb 1, 2012 0:33:12 GMT
Carbon can build up between the seating edge of the valve and the seat itself, causing a poor seal. Similarly, a head stood for a long time may develop minor corrosion, again leading to a poor seal.
"Lapping" is done by applying a small amount of abrasive compound to the mating surface of the valve and head, then using using that wooden stick with a rubber sucker on the end to gently rotate the valve back and forth until both surfaces are completely smooth. This guarantees a gas seal.
The "O" rings are used as valve stem seals at the top of the valve guides, in order to prevent engine oil weeping into the combustion chambers. I have gone mad and bought a set of American ST2001 seals for my head. These are over-caps with a teflon liner and are supposed to work rather better than the "O" rings.
All of the above works best if there is no play in the valve guides and the valve stems themselves are perfectly true.
Good news, Tommy. I await with interest to see how she goes on the road.
Chris.
|
|
|
Post by tommydp on Feb 1, 2012 21:21:31 GMT
Hi all!
I've just sat down with a large glass of cognac, and it's for celebration and happiness and not for depression after trying the crab on the road!
Dear friends, it has been solved! Yes, I dare say it now! I re torqued the head today and adjusted the valves again, fired it up and it idled as well as yesterday if not better. I put studded chains on the front wheels and crept down the steep road to the main road. Down on the road I really got aware of how smoothly it ran as I struggled on the icy ground taking the chains off. It should be mentioned the testing conditions for the old crab were rather unfriendly, - 20 degrees celsius, but he didn't mind at all.
So off I went and I've driven it for more than an hour, both city and motorway driving up to 110 kmh, stopped two times to check the engine and it idled beautifully all the time, even when I got home. Of course I did not push the engine or let it labour, but it really felt smooth and responsive. I didn't have to adjust anything either. He pulls like a train and the engine is very quiet. There is no smoke other than the normal condensation smoke when idling at such low temperatures. The exhaust smells clean too.
Well, the car is transformed! It could not have been better when new! The suspension has been transformed too, but that will be looked into in another thread later. I have an interesting theory on stiff suspension and saggy rear end..
Cheers! Tommy:-)
|
|
|
Post by indianajones on Feb 1, 2012 23:56:24 GMT
That's awesome Tommy,
Will have to get a list off you of all the things you have done, wanna get my crab going like yours!
...oh by the way....photos please!
-Andrew
|
|
|
Post by dave1800 on Feb 2, 2012 2:22:16 GMT
Well done Tommy. Now what will you do when you get the head back from Peter Burgess! ;D. Will he give you a report on the old head, it would be good to know if the problems were confined to the valve guides /seals and the build up on the exhaust valve. Maybe you could ak him? I'm interested in your findings on the change to the suspension stiffness, if I recall they relate to the drive shaft? Also the saggy rear end. I have my own thoughts on the latter it will be good to hear your ideas. I'm sure others here will have encountered the problems. Regards David Hi all! I've just sat down with a large glass of cognac, and it's for celebration and happiness and not for depression after trying the crab on the road! The suspension has been transformed too, but that will be looked into in another thread later. I have an interesting theory on stiff suspension and saggy rear end.. Cheers! Tommy:-)
|
|
|
Post by Keef on Feb 2, 2012 6:49:58 GMT
Great news.
|
|
|
Post by tommydp on Feb 2, 2012 9:27:42 GMT
Hi all and thanks!
It fired right away and ran beautifully to work today too, after a cold night outside. Hopefully it will stay this way.
Andrew: that list would have had more text than the bible.. a lot more interesting and useful thoug imo;-)
Dave: I have not sent the head, but will, and then keep it as a spare. I will ask Burgess to report back on the condition of the head.
Regards, Tommy.
|
|
|
Post by tommydp on Feb 4, 2012 23:31:32 GMT
Hi all! Just a quick update! Perhaps you think I'm struggling with carbs and carb needles, ignition timing, rough idle and wondering about the camshaft timing?
Well, I'm glad to say I'm not! The crab still runs, idles and performs excellent! I have not touched a thing since I installed the head and I've driven it a lot, as my shit Peugeot has worn wheel bearings, stabilizer rod etc and is crappy on ice..
I'm very pleased with the 1800 now, and the conditions here are still quite hard for a car. I've just returned from a longer trip with it and it just felt so safe and reliable and performed extremely well even in heavy snowdrift:-) And the idle is rock steady and smooth:-) It's a bit fun passing modern cars on the road side with the hazard lights on waiting for the recovery truck:-)
I really enjoy Landcrab life once again now:-)
PS! I would have loved to share some pis of him now, but unfortunately, now that I've learnt how to upload photos my camera won't work:-) Will get a new one soon!
Tommy:-)
|
|
|
Post by Penguin45 on Feb 5, 2012 0:33:17 GMT
Well done, Tommy. Really pleased for you.
Chris.
|
|
|
Post by Keef on Feb 5, 2012 14:54:14 GMT
I really enjoy Landcrab life once again now:-) Excellent!
|
|