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OKR
Oct 18, 2022 20:29:37 GMT
via mobile
Post by 1800heap on Oct 18, 2022 20:29:37 GMT
Thanks David Sorry I was ambiguous saying about the 1800S dizzy. I do not have an 1800S dizzy, I plan to put one together if possible with the units I do have. Not an easy task it seems! Im hearing you, the future plan is an electronic adjustable advance curve. For the moment, for safe running of the car, I need a serviceable unit that is somewhere in the ball park so as to not hurt the engine. From your advice I can see the standard dizzy may well hurt the engine should I happen to give it some beans! I had been unable to work out what the advance numbers mean on the vac units, so that is very helpful. Typically the 4-11-7 unit I have seems to be jammed! Will use the 4-12-8 as it is the closest. With regards to the springs, the advance curve is not as steep as standard so stronger springs? I can see I am going to have to make something to test what is going on with the springs. If I use the 10° cam I have, that gives me 20° crank max, plus if I set the advance to 10° the total max is 30° so a conservative max for this cam? Sorry alot in there thanks for the help David. Nick
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OKR
Oct 18, 2022 20:31:46 GMT
via mobile
Post by 1800heap on Oct 18, 2022 20:31:46 GMT
Be good if it works. Nick No idea what the results will be so it may be a waste of time. I can tell the difference between A-Series cars with standard thin steel and thick cast alloy aftermarket rocker covers, you may be pleasantly surprised!
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OKR
Oct 18, 2022 23:51:29 GMT
Post by dave1800 on Oct 18, 2022 23:51:29 GMT
Hi Nick
Your post was not ambiguous, I misread the part about the 1800S dizzy. You can always modify a dizzy cam by grinding away or adding metal. If you compare the cams you have you will be able to work out by how much.
David
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OKR
Oct 20, 2022 20:31:50 GMT
Post by 1800heap on Oct 20, 2022 20:31:50 GMT
Getting there with the engine! I am just trying to sort out the dizzy so I can put that back on and I am back into the body work. I even found a badge to go on the rocker box cover. It may be unique. Nick
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OKR
Oct 21, 2022 13:41:56 GMT
Post by Penguin45 on Oct 21, 2022 13:41:56 GMT
It certainly has become unique, Nick and a very lovely thing. I'm not going to join in much on the electronic ignition discussions, 'cos I'll break something. Suffice to say, not running a "performance" car, I have a 41234 distributor which has been refurbished to standard with parts from the Distributor Doctor, Moss Europe and a specialist vac unit repairer. This runs an old AE ETi200 electronic ignition box and it causes me no bother at all, which suits me nicely. What I have done, which may be of some use, is collate all the 'Crab dizzy information and tabulate it in the Technical Articles section. Chris.
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OKR
Feb 20, 2023 22:43:13 GMT
Post by 1800heap on Feb 20, 2023 22:43:13 GMT
It has been a while since I have posted on the forum, I am finally near to finishing the section that has been taking all my time so here is a quick update. I had been avoiding the fish bowl section on the near side because I thought it was going to be an extreme pain. I can say now I was right, it was! Eventually there was no choice but to get on with it though. You may remember I did post quite a while ago about making a concrete former, for the repair. I needed a section of the rear wing which is a very difficult shape to beat out of a flat piece of metal! There was a lot of different stages to the fix as the rust was in the wheel arch as well so I will have to do several posts to cover it. So here we go on the concrete former. This is the OZ crab, as previously posted, that I have prepped to make a fiberglass mould. Glass going on. As you can see my release agent did not work! But the copy was ok after a clean up. Well I am out of time already and have to go to work, so this will be it for the first post. I will have to catch up with all the other new posts from everybody later! Nick
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OKR
Feb 21, 2023 6:29:14 GMT
Post by 1800heap on Feb 21, 2023 6:29:14 GMT
Ok so at this point I have the fiber glass copy. The plan was to make a reusable plaster copy with the fiber glass section and then use that to make the concrete formers. The concrete was going to have two parts so that the metal panel could be pressed into shape using the same method body panels are normally made. I wanted the plaster to stay attached to the plywood, so there are a couple of metal strengtheners bolted to the ply that would be inside the plaster. Here it is sealed up ready to pour the plaster. Plaster poured and dry. Success, with bit of clean up required. Cleaned up painted and polished. I took quite a bit of time here because it was going to be reusable. Unfortunately, there was a flaw in the plan! Boxed up ready for concrete. Vibration from an old orbital sander sorted. Concrete poured and vibrated to get the air out. Concrete all good but sadly at the expense of the plaster, as it had to be chiseled out! The release agent did not work but I think the main problem was no flexibility in the plaster or concrete. As I am sure Chris will agree, as our expert with these things. I was never going to get it out in one piece. I needed it to be rubber not plaster. Oh well! So having wasted time making the plaster part perfect that I had just destroyed, I decided to use the concrete as a former and not a press, and hammer the part into submission. In actual fact I should have realised that the inner part of the press needed to be a copy of the inner section of panel, not the outer section, so even if it came out it would not have been any good to me. There has to be a gap in the outer and inner parts of the press where the metal ends up getting pressed into. Doh! Not to worry I got the part I needed, all be it with some slight damage to the concrete due to hitting the metal quite a bit in certain areas. I had hoped to be able to supply some repair panels, but that will have to wait until I get time to finish it as a press. Here it is. All that effort for this, you might say, but it is an accurate copy of the section and as you will see in later posts it fit the car nicely. I would have never got that trying to shape it by eye. Nick
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OKR
Feb 21, 2023 7:49:54 GMT
Post by Penguin45 on Feb 21, 2023 7:49:54 GMT
That's a fantastic effort, Nick. Huge learning curve accomplished - very well done.
You're right about release agents. I have used a variety of "official" (and expensive) ones during my own mould making, all of which gave poor results. I settled in the end on cheap aerosol beeswax furniture polish! Works a treat.
Chris.
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OKR
Feb 21, 2023 9:44:25 GMT
via mobile
Post by 1800heap on Feb 21, 2023 9:44:25 GMT
Thanks Chris I did wonder half way through if all the effort was going to be worth while! I think if I had found a new old stock rear wing I would not have wanted to cut it up for such a small piece. I must say I am impressed with your efforts in the parts reproduction department. Just shows what you can do if you put your mind to it. Nick That's a fantastic effort, Nick. Huge learning curve accomplished - very well done. You're right about release agents. I have used a variety of "official" (and expensive) ones during my own mould making, all of which gave poor results. I settled in the end on cheap aerosol beeswax furniture polish! Works a treat. Chris.
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OKR
Feb 21, 2023 21:15:30 GMT
Post by 1800heap on Feb 21, 2023 21:15:30 GMT
Jigsaw puzzle! Not much left of the fish bowl as you can see. Lots of curves to get back into place! This is the small section I already made from the last time I visited the area. More to cut out. Start cutting. Looking a bit sad now! Here I have started to shape the body to fit the new section. Then I am test fitting, adjusting and adding bits to fill in the whole section. After a considerable amount of fettling and adding bits, this is the part I end up with. I now have to start making the front section of the arch. I need to use a template copied from the OZ car, to get the arch shape back to how it should be. Next time! Nick
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OKR
Feb 22, 2023 2:01:44 GMT
Post by dave1800 on Feb 22, 2023 2:01:44 GMT
I admire your patience as well as your skill in making all of these complex shapes. It is a shame that 3D printing for the masses has not evolved as quickly as hoped, but then would you get the same sense of achievement? David Jigsaw puzzle! Not much left of the fish bowl as you can see. Lots of curves to get back into place! I now have to start making the front section of the arch. I need to use a template copied from the OZ car, to get the arch shape back to how it should be. Next time! Nick
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OKR
Feb 22, 2023 2:02:14 GMT
Post by dave1800 on Feb 22, 2023 2:02:14 GMT
Forgot to say, thanks for posting.
David
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OKR
Feb 22, 2023 21:08:42 GMT
Post by 1800heap on Feb 22, 2023 21:08:42 GMT
Thanks David It would be lovely if you could just do a quick scan of the part you need and either order one or have your own device that prints it. I expect eventually it will come to that! I admire your patience as well as your skill in making all of these complex shapes. It is a shame that 3D printing for the masses has not evolved as quickly as hoped, but then would you get the same sense of achievement? David Continuing on from yesterday's post, next up was the front section of the arch. To make the section I used the same piece of shaped round bar that I used for the off side rear arch. You bend it to the curve you are after and bash the flat piece over the top. This is a picture from the off side repair, but you can see the method. To help with strength I seam welded the inner and outer arches together where they were close enough. Then the curved section goes over and the back is tidied up after. I have put some plug weld holes in to give it a bit of stability while it is seam welded it in. There is a short section of joddle to make it easier to seam weld the section as I can't get to the back of it.
Welded in place. There you have it. many hour of work later its in. Move on to the rear section. Nick
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OKR
Feb 23, 2023 8:44:42 GMT
Post by andrewa on Feb 23, 2023 8:44:42 GMT
Morning Nick Thanks for the fascinating update - love the attention to detail and ingeniousness! I've just finished a house rebuild and move and am now back on the cars - dealing with a couple of issues that I've been putting off - trying to improve the steering box on the Model A and the gear selection of the Bristol (it's an auto but shifting it manually is not as positive as I'd like). Both a bit of a fools errand as Bristol fine if you leave it in drive and steering box in Model A was good enough to pass MOT. So now with Spring around the corner I find myself yet and again with two cars - neither of which I can drive....
Looking forward to next update.
All the best Andrew
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OKR
Feb 23, 2023 20:21:25 GMT
via mobile
Post by 1800heap on Feb 23, 2023 20:21:25 GMT
Hi Andrew Glad to here your house rebuild and move is done and dusted. How did you go sorting out all your gear from the old house? I expect your are glad that is over with anyway! I assume with the Model A your are trying to get rid of the slightly baggy feel you get from an old worn steering box. The two tooth boxes are adjustable I think, so I assume it has a bit of age related wear that does not adjust out? Manual shifting with the Bristol. I am sensing this is possibly your quest for a little extra speed and performance resurfacing now you have time, which sounds perfectly reasonable to me! Bummer they are both off the road at the same time though. Nick Morning Nick Thanks for the fascinating update - love the attention to detail and ingeniousness! I've just finished a house rebuild and move and am now back on the cars - dealing with a couple of issues that I've been putting off - trying to improve the steering box on the Model A and the gear selection of the Bristol (it's an auto but shifting it manually is not as positive as I'd like). Both a bit of a fools errand as Bristol fine if you leave it in drive and steering box in Model A was good enough to pass MOT. So now with Spring around the corner I find myself yet and again with two cars - neither of which I can drive.... Looking forward to next update. All the best Andrew
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