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Post by austin1800mk2 on Aug 31, 2019 10:30:50 GMT
Hi all,
My Austin 1800 has a whole in the hydroelastic suspension connecting front to back (made of rubber) but am struggling to source a new one? Any ideas? The back suspension is currently dropped because of this.
Thanks,
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Post by Penguin45 on Aug 31, 2019 11:54:25 GMT
If you are lucky, you may just have a burst hose. Each displacer has a short hose coming coming out of it. These join a connecting pipe front to rear. This was originally a steel pipe, but many have been replaced with a hydraulic hose. Repaired displacers and replacement connecting hoses can be obtained from Tony Wood on spareathought@landcrab.net. Have a look in the SUSPENSION 101 section for a thorough outline of the suspension system and HERE for how to replace your own displacer pipes. Chris. |
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 31, 2019 12:00:39 GMT
The hydrolastic suspension on each side is connected front to rear with a pipe. If there is a fluid leak the car will go down on one side both front and rear. A leak can be in the interconnecting pipes, the hydrolastic units themselves or the flexible pipe that connects the unit to the interconnecting pipe. The flexible pipes are the usual culprit and more frequent at the rear. The fluid is a fluorescent green colour which aids finding the source of the leak. There are also schrader valves close to the connection of the interconnecting pipes to the front hydro units that can fail. I am puzzled as you say the back suspension is dropped rather than one side. You need to identify the source of the problem to determine what needs to be sourced or in the case of a flexible hose failure getting this repaired. David (crossed with Chris' post) Hi all, My Austin 1800 has a whole in the hydroelastic suspension connecting front to back (made of rubber) but am struggling to source a new one? Any ideas? The back suspension is currently dropped because of this. Thanks, |
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Post by austin1800mk2 on Sept 2, 2019 19:05:42 GMT
Thank you for your help! It's only back right that has dropped, but when my mechanic put the liquid in, it drained out and dropped back to how it was. He identified the leak being in a rubber hose, but he's not a Landcrab expert.
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Post by wesley on Nov 30, 2023 21:10:48 GMT
Hi people i am also looking for someone to replace my hydrolastic suspension on crab on the
n-s-r as its knocking and ratteling a lot over uneven ground ect. I work at a hyundai main dealer as a vehicle technician but just haven't got the time or allowed to do big jobs at work.
Can any one recommend me to a hydrolastic technician please
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Post by Penguin45 on Dec 1, 2023 18:40:48 GMT
Hi Samuel,
I think first you need to work out what the actual problem is. To that end, what year is your car and where about are you?
Rattles. Some noise problems are surprisingly simple. Rattling handbrake rods spring to mind. Loose gaps, worn clevis pins and pivots can make unexpected amounts of noise. Missing rod return springs leave the whole mechanism with no tension. The whole lot can rattle like mad. Took me ages to figure out on one of my cars...
Knocks. More scope for trouble here. Simple one: missing rear bump stops will allow the limit arm on the top to hit the body or alloy carrier on full travel, so that would only happen over major bumps. Can be exacerbated by low ride height - check for 378mm between centre of front wheel up to the wheel arch. The trailing arm on MkI + most II cars pivots on taper roller bearings, which wear, dry out, corrode and develop Brinelling (clickiness). In extreme cases the wear would let the arm wiggle from side to side and affect the handling. The MkIII cars use Metalastick bushes rather than bearings. Noise isn't so much a issue, but in extreme cases the top of the rear wheel can bend inwards and scuff the inner wheel arch - a rubbing, scraping noise would ensue. The worst scenario I can envisage is body work failure, allowing the whole carrier to move. There are only four retaining bolts for the whole rear arm assembly, so this is potentially extremely dangerous. Both Nick (1800Heap) and I have had to do work in the mounting areas - there are pictures (somewhere) in our restoration threads.
As a starting point, perhaps ask if you could put the car up on a lift briefly one lunchtime to have a look. I can assure you that modern motor technicians will be unable to resist having a look as well, so the problem may well be quickly identified!
There are probably other possibilities, but that's all I can come up with at the moment. The actual Hydrolastics are very unlikely to be the culprit.
Chris.
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Post by wesley on Dec 1, 2023 20:20:47 GMT
Yes thanks that is very helpful...
Mine is a 1972 1800 dark blue..
Im based in Somerset in wells.
The knocking sounds like a gas canister rattling... hapens over all kinds of ground more so on bigger bumps..
Yes i will have to get it on the ramp when i can. The suspension does go down on the n/s over 3 weeks.. i was told that the hydrolastic unit on the near side rear needed replacing when i bought it a year ago but i dont know..
Its a really solid car. Just needs paint.
Would really appreciate it if you know anyone who could sort the suspension for me money is not so much of a problem just would love to get her right
Nice one thanks
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Post by dave1800 on Dec 2, 2023 2:02:25 GMT
Chris has covered the likely sources. I just want to add that the rattling from the handbrake rods can easily be discounted by driving with the handbrake just about to engage to see if the noise disappears. As Chris noted, until you know it can take a while to identify that source. David Hi Samuel, I think first you need to work out what the actual problem is. To that end, what year is your car and where about are you? Rattles. Some noise problems are surprisingly simple. Rattling handbrake rods spring to mind. Loose gaps, worn clevis pins and pivots can make unexpected amounts of noise. Missing rod return springs leave the whole mechanism with no tension. The whole lot can rattle like mad. Took me ages to figure out on one of my cars... Chris. |
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Post by Penguin45 on Dec 2, 2023 11:17:18 GMT
Just to add regarding the rear arm pivots, the change from roller bearings to the Metalastik bushes took place between MkI and MkII cars. Yours will be this later type. Article on dropping the rear suspension assembly HERE. C. |
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