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Post by biglad54 on Mar 10, 2019 10:36:08 GMT
Hi. to every one on here,I am hoping someone can help me,
I have a mk2 morris 1800 and i have got a problem with the clutch,I have a pedal with pressure but i have to put the pedal to the flloor to engage any gear and when i release the clutch it grabs at roughly half to one inch from the floor ,
so far i have had fitted a new clutch, a new master and slave cylinder,which had been primed before fitting and when bled no air bubbles were showing coming out of the system,the rod to the slave cylinder does not seem to be moving very far but i cannot understand why,
i am wondering if the clutch plate was fitted the wrong way round when it was changed or could there be another reason thats causing this problem,
with being disabled i have to rely on other people doing the work for me and have had great difficulty sourcing somebody that knows what they are doing, any help or advice would be very much appreciated ....
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Post by dave1800 on Mar 10, 2019 13:13:08 GMT
It was not unusual for the clutch to engage fairly close to the floor and there were a number of changes made to the components. Was this the reason for the clutch and cylinder changes? The first check is the obvious one to ensure that the carpet and underlay /soundproofing are not restricting the pedal preventing the full throw of the clutch master cylinder. It is also important to ensure that there is no play in the clutch pedal assembly and the actuating rod. I will try and find the guidance on the Australian website that provides details of the measurements of the pedal free play. One of the mods was to extend the master cylinder push rod to compensate for pedal box wear, but care had to be taken not to over lengthen it to prevent clutch damage. A check that can be overlooked is to ensure the engine crankshaft thrust washer are not worn. If they are, some of the slave cylinder rod movement is consumed moving the crankshaft forward. This can be checked by tapping the front of the crankshaft pulley to move the crank back and then operating the clutch to see if the crank moves forwards. There should only be a few thousandths of an inch play. This takes two people of course and can be felt by placing a hand on the pulley. There are reports that the system can sometimes be difficult to bleed so maybe worth another try. I must admit I never found this problem. It is just possible that the flexible portion of the slave cylinder hydraulic pipe has deteriorated internally and is offering a high resistance to the flow back into the master cylinder so this would restrict the throw of the clutch. When Penguin (Chris) reads your post he should be able to point you in the direction of some modifications he has made to make the system adjustable and other things I may have missed. David There are a couple of easy checks that can be made Hi. to every one on here,I am hoping someone can help me, I have a mk2 morris 1800 and i have got a problem with the clutch,I have a pedal with pressure but i have to put the pedal to the flloor to engage any gear and when i release the clutch it grabs at roughly half to one inch from the floor , so far i have had fitted a new clutch, a new master and slave cylinder,which had been primed before fitting and when bled no air bubbles were showing coming out of the system,the rod to the slave cylinder does not seem to be moving very far but i cannot understand why, i am wondering if the clutch plate was fitted the wrong way round when it was changed or could there be another reason thats causing this problem, with being disabled i have to rely on other people doing the work for me and have had great difficulty sourcing somebody that knows what they are doing, any help or advice would be very much appreciated .... |
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Post by Penguin45 on Mar 11, 2019 0:31:38 GMT
Hi, I think David is referring to this thread - HERE. The info re. pushrods is on page 2. The slave can be an absolute s@d to bleed. On one occasion it was actually removed from the clutch housing and bled whilst held above the height of the master cylinder. Awkward, but effective. Chris. |
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Post by biglad54 on Mar 14, 2019 9:20:31 GMT
Hi Chris thanks for the info. i will try that ,Tony from the club has supplied me with a push rod and clevis pin for the s/c. so will see how we progress .Graham
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Post by biglad54 on Mar 19, 2019 9:33:32 GMT
Hi, I think David is referring to this thread - HERE. The info re. pushrods is on page 2. The slave can be an absolute s@d to bleed. On one occasion it was actually removed from the clutch housing and bled whilst held above the height of the master cylinder. Awkward, but effective. Chris. |
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Post by biglad54 on Mar 19, 2019 9:36:51 GMT
Hi. Chris could you tell me what free movement (distance) if any there should be on the clutch fork with the the s/c push rod removed ?
thanks Graham
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Post by Penguin45 on Mar 20, 2019 0:01:32 GMT
Bear with me on that, Graham. There's nothing listed in the WM, but I'll see what I can work out on my car. Clutch is pleasant to use at the moment, so probably within some sort of "specification".
Chris.
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Post by dave1800 on Mar 20, 2019 1:36:16 GMT
Hi Graham I've found the service bulletin that I have sent to you by email that sets out all the measurements. Hopefully with Chris' data you can identify the issue. regards David Edit: I've now found the link Clutch bulletinWell worth a look at the Oz websire, lots of excellent articles and information, many hours of good reads here |
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Post by biglad54 on Mar 22, 2019 12:36:06 GMT
Bear with me on that, Graham. There's nothing listed in the WM, but I'll see what I can work out on my car. Clutch is pleasant to use at the moment, so probably within some sort of "specification". Chris. <iframe width="23.079999999999927" height="4.47999999999999" style="position: absolute; width: 23.079999999999927px; height: 4.47999999999999px; z-index: -9999; border-style: none;left: 15px; top: -5px;" id="MoatPxIOPT0_84862286" scrolling="no"></iframe> <iframe width="23.079999999999927" height="4.47999999999999" style="position: absolute; width: 23.08px; height: 4.48px; z-index: -9999; border-style: none; left: 1094px; top: -5px;" id="MoatPxIOPT0_46837659" scrolling="no"></iframe> <iframe width="23.079999999999927" height="4.47999999999999" style="position: absolute; width: 23.08px; height: 4.48px; z-index: -9999; border-style: none; left: 15px; top: 163px;" id="MoatPxIOPT0_43474182" scrolling="no"></iframe> <iframe width="23.079999999999927" height="4.47999999999999" style="position: absolute; width: 23.08px; height: 4.48px; z-index: -9999; border-style: none; left: 1094px; top: 163px;" id="MoatPxIOPT0_70701162" scrolling="no"></iframe> |
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Post by biglad54 on Mar 22, 2019 12:48:47 GMT
Hi Chris, thank you for the info. but i am hoping that by some very strange reason the problem has sorted itself for i now have a perfect working clutch,
I went to the garage to move the car this morning and found the clutch now works as it should i have a good pedal and it is easy to engage all gears and it is now clearing about 2 to 3 inch from the floor, i do not know what has happened but it is now spot on, I took it for a short run and everything was fine so fingers crossed it will be ok.to say i was gobsmacked is an understatement .
I would like to thank you for your help and with luck i will see you at one of the shows and i can thank you personally
regards Graham
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Post by dave1800 on Mar 23, 2019 6:57:28 GMT
That's great new Graham. I wonder if anyone here has any thoughts as to what caused this and how it cleared. I can only think of the possibility that there was some gunge acting as a partial one way valve and preventing the fluid from fully returning to the master cylinder?
David
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