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DFD702K.
Sept 24, 2018 17:07:30 GMT
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Post by snoopy11 on Sept 24, 2018 17:07:30 GMT
PS: Mann code for the *proper* filter is W712.. Whether that refers to any other cars on here is an unknown. On the upside the oil additive seems to have stopped the jiggle pin leak. Although will find out for definite 2moro. I would be nervous about putting additives into the oil to cure a leak. The thickening can also block fine holes in the galleries and pickup sieve There shouldn’t be any oil where the jiggle pin is. It is on the clutch side of the engine so should be dry. My guess would be the leak is from the crank seal. It’s really a big o ring and my advise would be to have a proper look at some point. If this fails you could potentially cause damage to the engine very quickly and you will also be contaminating the clutch with oil.
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DFD702K.
Sept 24, 2018 19:18:36 GMT
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Post by rosieuk on Sept 24, 2018 19:18:36 GMT
Have taken the car for a quick mixed blast up the A12 and back, in total around 20 miles. Leaks are much improved & the oil pressure seems to hold much better when the engine is idling or at low speed. The transmission is smoother but it balks a bit more. It's not as happy over 60mph but I'd prefer to go a little slower than have it blow up. Exhaust is a great improvement - strangely the car seems to get quieter the quicker you go? Quite boomy exhaust at slow speeds but not as bad as you go quicker. I've seen that article I think. Problems with mine are headlight flash, interior light/reversing light/heated screen and door lock on passenger side. It doesn't have starting issues but it does take a little convincing if you stop & try and restart when it's half warm. Im tempted to fit a coolant heater (since that *really* improved mpg in the Safrane (22 listed to 26 actual)) but it'll have to be a coolant type because of the vaned sump . On the Safrane I could fit just a sump heater. Last tank was 23.91mpg, which is not far off 1.5mpg improvement. It also looks like the coolant heaters are v expensive. Followed a BMW Mini on the last half mile - girl spent more time staring at the Wolseley in the rear view than paying attention *sigh*.
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DFD702K.
Sept 24, 2018 19:26:27 GMT
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Post by rosieuk on Sept 24, 2018 19:26:27 GMT
PS: Mann code for the *proper* filter is W712.. Whether that refers to any other cars on here is an unknown. On the upside the oil additive seems to have stopped the jiggle pin leak. Although will find out for definite 2moro. I would be nervous about putting additives into the oil to cure a leak. The thickening can also block fine holes in the galleries and pickup sieve There shouldn’t be any oil where the jiggle pin is. It is on the clutch side of the engine so should be dry. My guess would be the leak is from the crank seal. It’s really a big o ring and my advise would be to have a proper look at some point. If this fails you could potentially cause damage to the engine very quickly and you will also be contaminating the clutch with oil. I know what the problem is I just can't find anyone to fix it. Everyone can get the bits - I can even get a bottom end gasket set off eBay - but no one wants to admit to being able to do the actual job. The bearings need to be replaced at the very least - and the crank seal - but until I can find someone who can do it and doesn't need to be hung up by his thumbs over a bonfire to force them to take it on - I'd rather do what I can. I don't really do much more than 50mph anyway & I'm careful with vehicles - idiots ragging anything is a pet hate of mine. If I can find an affordable coolant heater that'd be a real help for the engine - eliminate the cold starts - they should be fitted as standard & used religiously.
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Post by dave1800 on Sept 25, 2018 6:36:47 GMT
Worth checking that the crankcase pipe leading from the tappet chest is not blocked and that you have the correct vented oil filler cap. A non vented cap or a blocked crankcase breather will build up pressure and force oil past the seals and drip from the jiggle pin. I had an engine that had not run for a couple of years and it leaked at the jiggle pin for a few hundred miles if I recall and then stopped. The clutch survived. Given your situation the cheapest option may be to try and find a complete second hand engine and transmission as a unit as you may be able to find someone to install it. It's a lot easier and probably a lot cheaper than dismantling the engine /gearbox and rebuilding, and is a relatively straight forward task. I would however be tempted to fit new clutch components. David PS: Mann code for the *proper* filter is W712.. Whether that refers to any other cars on here is an unknown. On the upside the oil additive seems to have stopped the jiggle pin leak. Although will find out for definite 2moro. I would be nervous about putting additives into the oil to cure a leak. The thickening can also block fine holes in the galleries and pickup sieve There shouldn’t be any oil where the jiggle pin is. It is on the clutch side of the engine so should be dry. My guess would be the leak is from the crank seal. It’s really a big o ring and my advise would be to have a proper look at some point. If this fails you could potentially cause damage to the engine very quickly and you will also be contaminating the clutch with oil.
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DFD702K.
Sept 25, 2018 11:55:10 GMT
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Post by snoopy11 on Sept 25, 2018 11:55:10 GMT
I would be nervous about putting additives into the oil to cure a leak. The thickening can also block fine holes in the galleries and pickup sieve There shouldn’t be any oil where the jiggle pin is. It is on the clutch side of the engine so should be dry. My guess would be the leak is from the crank seal. It’s really a big o ring and my advise would be to have a proper look at some point. If this fails you could potentially cause damage to the engine very quickly and you will also be contaminating the clutch with oil. I know what the problem is I just can't find anyone to fix it. Everyone can get the bits - I can even get a bottom end gasket set off eBay - but no one wants to admit to being able to do the actual job. The bearings need to be replaced at the very least - and the crank seal - but until I can find someone who can do it and doesn't need to be hung up by his thumbs over a bonfire to force them to take it on - I'd rather do what I can. I don't really do much more than 50mph anyway & I'm careful with vehicles - idiots ragging anything is a pet hate of mine. If I can find an affordable coolant heater that'd be a real help for the engine - eliminate the cold starts - they should be fitted as standard & used religiously. Where in the uk are you. Someone on here may be able to point you in the direction of someone who can help.
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Post by Penguin45 on Sept 25, 2018 15:07:13 GMT
Dahn sarf. Now if it were oop in't north....
Chris.
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Post by dave1800 on Sept 26, 2018 1:53:42 GMT
Maybe worth contacting LOCI to see if they know of anyone in the area who may be able to help. Well worth joining LOCI, essential if you need spares etc really. LOCI hereDavid Dahn sarf. Now if it were oop in't north.... Chris.
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DFD702K.
Sept 27, 2018 14:38:52 GMT
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Post by rosieuk on Sept 27, 2018 14:38:52 GMT
Just got the car back from suspension pump up. Doesn't make all that much difference driving but you'll be grateful in car parks - it's as if it's suddenly got power steering! I suspect the low suspension height was loading up the steering. I know the crankcase ventilation is working because it passes the rpm change test in the manual & it's fitted with the vented cap. Oil leaks have pretty much stopped completely and I took it for quite a run today (it seems to leak more at higher rpm). It seems to be retaining oil pressure better, although if it's cold, 2nd gear is now rather hateful because it *really* doesn't want to select the first couple of times. I'm in Essex so SE. I'm tempted to get a replacement engine but the trouble is how to know if what you're putting in is better than you're taking out. I'm surprised how little difference the suspension change +20mm one side, +25-30mm the other has made to driving although it's a little less thumpy. But I will say that if you have a low ride height you'll suffer in car parking - it's so much easier to maneuver after the height adjustment. I'm also curious - apparently these sag while towing - could that be improved with an extra displacer linked to the back - side to side activated by load?
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DFD702K.
Sept 27, 2018 14:46:54 GMT
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Post by rosieuk on Sept 27, 2018 14:46:54 GMT
The clutch so far seems fine - my left knee however not so much. I finally found the secret of my bad shoulders too.. And it's not the Wolseley steering.. Ironically it's the new cars, specifically the steering wheel. It's too small a diameter and it's causing *serious* pain in right shoulder because of how I'm having to hold the arm - drive the Wolseley and I never get the pain at all. I'd have expected it to get worse with the unassisted steering but it looks like the angles on the bigger wheel - don't cause the agonising pain the Kia does.. I might be able to get hold of a new motor but it's storage and testing and fitting & the like - I can ask the place that did the suspension but I'm not sure if they'd be up for the job.
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Post by dave1800 on Sept 28, 2018 6:23:54 GMT
Comments in blue italics
David
Just got the car back from suspension pump up. Doesn't make all that much difference driving but you'll be grateful in car parks - it's as if it's suddenly got power steering! I suspect the low suspension height was loading up the steering. Raising the front suspension to the correct height does have a significant effect on the weight of the steering
I know the crankcase ventilation is working because it passes the rpm change test in the manual & it's fitted with the vented cap. You are probably correct but I think that only checks there is sufficient venting at idle and may not confirm a partly blocked pipe insufficient to vent the increased gases at higher rpm.
Oil leaks have pretty much stopped completely and I took it for quite a run today (it seems to leak more at higher rpm). See comment above, but higher rpm also mean higher oil temperature and reduced viscosity.
It seems to be retaining oil pressure better, although if it's cold, 2nd gear is now rather hateful because it *really* doesn't want to select the first couple of times. Not unusual in my experience.I'm in Essex so SE. I'm tempted to get a replacement engine but the trouble is how to know if what you're putting in is better than you're taking out. There is an engine / gear box for sale on the LOCI site,maybe worth a call. It is in Wisbech which is still a fair way from Colchester but at least on the same side of the country. I'm not sure if Ray house (phone no on LOCI website) still has any "new" ex - MOD units - he is based in E Anglia I think but cannot recall exactly where. I'm surprised how little difference the suspension change +20mm one side, +25-30mm the other has made to driving although it's a little less thumpy. But I will say that if you have a low ride height you'll suffer in car parking - it's so much easier to maneuver after the height adjustment. I'm also curious - apparently these sag while towing - could that be improved with an extra displacer linked to the back - side to side activated by load? The best solution for towing caravans were the Aeon rubber suspension units in parallel with the rear suspension made specifically for the crabs. BL tried side to side connections with the Metro for a while, not sure if that contributed to my boss' daughter turning one over. I don't know what Sir Alex thought of this modification to the front rear only set up.
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DFD702K.
Oct 3, 2018 17:47:26 GMT
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Post by rosieuk on Oct 3, 2018 17:47:26 GMT
I'm beginning to dislike this vehicle.
So, I thought let's replace the air filter element, a simple job I thought, nothing to it I thought.
So I undo the screw from the air cleaner and I manage to free it off and get it out.. To see what looks like a broken stud and an air filter element that looks like it hasn't been changed since homotherium evolved.
Then I find that it won't go back - and then I find that after an *hour* of pushing, pulling, snipping and back pain to the point of tears - that indeed it will go in but that the sheared off stud is the mounting for the centre bolt which of course now won't do up..
So after a half hour of fighting both the Wolseley and back pain at about 8 - I finally manage to get the thread to bite and tighten it up - only the damn thing won't seal properly *whatever* I try..
So I do the best I can and get it pretty much sorted.
Then the battery has gone south for the winter so I charge it.
Then when I no longer want to dump it down Friday Woods on fire I take it for a test drive - and lo & behold it runs like a bag of hammers in a cement mixer - won't go above 50mph in top unless I use choke..
It isn't running hot - it just doesn't feel happy and spits and complains at speed without choke.
It *looks* to me as if it's running lean but I haven't touched anything but the air cleaner box, the element and that's it. I've not touched idle speed (which seems normal) and I've not touched the mixture either, so I'm confused.
I still haven't managed to get the air cleaner to seal shut (I think it's slightly over tight on the nut) and other than that I've put the intake horn to the top (so it doesn't suck in water - we have roads that get flooded) - I haven't touched anything else.
Is it possible that a new element can make this sort of difference? The last one God alone knows when it was changed and it was as black as a mile down a coal mine - and being lean if it's getting more air makes sense.. As does bad running - but if it was that bad how did it run before?
Anyone have any suggestions because I seriously need help with this.. Thanks in advance.
PS: should you happen to have long hair don't let it dangle when you've forgotten that left hand radiator & fan.. The car will try and eat it. You do not want this.
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DFD702K.
Oct 3, 2018 18:38:49 GMT
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Post by rosieuk on Oct 3, 2018 18:38:49 GMT
This is getting to be even more fun. So I look at the box the filter came in - and while it's marked GFE1007 on a sticky label - the actual box says GFE1072 - and since it's a brand new sealed box... Only slight problem is I don't have a 2300 SD1 - the last one snapped its Watts linkage and dumped me into a ditch. So do I have a landcrab part or a SD1 part, and does it actually matter, and exactly how much more hassle is it going to take me to dump it at the local scrappy. I try simple jobs and they turn into nightmares usually because of past bodge tastics or poor or non existant previous maintenence.
On the upside - jiggle pin leak is history.
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Post by peppib on Oct 3, 2018 18:58:09 GMT
Hi Rosie Such are the joys of landcrab motoring.
I had similar problems with my air filter so now run a pancake one, and have for about 10 years. Simple, except when one of the bolts slips through into the head and bends a pushrod. Well, I wanted to take the head off again anyway
I also use an oil additive and my low revs oil pressure is so much better.
Looking after these cars becomes a painful obsession, although being as bald as a coot I don't have problems with the right side of the engine.
I, too, am in agony tonight having spent hours masking up the car to refresh the paint, the day being chosen on the basis of a good weather forecast only for the heavens to open just as I had finished masking. Agony being eased by a glass of red and the hope that the promised sunshine will appear tomorrow.
Mine is a single carb set up, with ports slightly polished. The local mechanic is a rallycross driver and has tuned the engine as he just loves my car. I like seeing the looks on the faces of the boy racers at traffic lights when I outrun them
Stick with it - you will grow to love the car ..... eventually!
Dave
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Post by dave1800 on Oct 4, 2018 8:24:07 GMT
You little devil David Hi
Mine is a single carb set up, with ports slightly polished. The local mechanic is a rallycross driver and has tuned the engine as he just loves my car. I like seeing the looks on the faces of the boy racers at traffic lights when I outrun them
Dave
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Post by andrewa on Oct 4, 2018 9:14:45 GMT
Morning Been following your trials and tribulations with a sense of deja vu - I bought an apparently immaculate Landcrab and ended up rebuilding it from the roof down but ended up with a stunning car. The most useful thing I found - eventually - was a one man band with a passion for what he does, to look after the car. He's a racer as well so does things properly as well as being able to fabricate stuff when needed - he also knows his limits so won't touch bodywork, final suspension set up and so on. I found him by accident - I needed some engineering work done (on the head) and asked the guy there who he would recommend to take head off, change cam and put it back together and do all important break in of cam. We've been together ever since. You're in a difficult situation - it can take a lot of time and money to sort out an engine that's on the way out/got it's problems so if you're on a budget then I'd be inclined to go for an engine and gearbox with all the ancilliaries that you can hear running and go for that or the Ray House option or failing that take a chance on a second hand unit.. You're still stuck with finding someone to do the work you can't do though - so for what it's worth I'd spend some time on that. The bag of nails running could be timing - but from what you've said sounds fuel related (probably disturbed some crap/muck somewhere) so as it runs better with choke out I would start with in line fuel filter, clean carb and try again. I think most of us on here have gone through the despair/put a match to it/why did I do this feeling, only to be replaced in a short while with a happier feeling as you take a step forward. Also - not sure if you're a LOCI member but if not, do join and Tony Wood is not only a great source of proper parts but also a mine of info as he runs these cars as his daily drive - there is unlikely to be a problem he hasn't encountered and he's a lovely bloke. Good luck. Cheers Andrew
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